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1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

 
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:26 PM
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Icon9 1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

Hey guys,

I'm new to this forum, but could greatly use your help in a recent problem with my prelude. While driving home from Walgreens, there were flash flood conditions and my car stalled out in some water (driving very slowly)...Stupidly tried starting it while drowned - I know...Now she's hydrolocked.

Anyway, the engine won't start or turn over now. I took out the spark plugs (wet) and with a flashlight can see water in cylinder #1. I tried starting the engine (with spark plugs out) to push the water out, but it wouldn't turn over. I tried cranking it manually, but I couldn't get it to turn. I think the connecting rod in cylinder #1 is bent.

The h22 vtech engine has less than 100,000 miles on it, and I'd hate to see it go. I have some decent knowledge of cars, and have done some engine rebuilding work on mustangs. I know any shop I take it to will tell me to replace the engine with a comparable used one, and I don't want to do that.

Basically, what I am trying to find out is approximately how much this job will cost, any special tools required, and approximate man-hours it will take.

I found some new rods on ebay for about $150. I figure I might as well replace the piston rings while down there; $50 for piston rings on ebay. Will definitely need new spark plugs, and an oil change. New gaskets would probably cost up to $50.

Apart from that stuff, I'd love your recommendations, advice, or input on the situation. I appreciate all your help in advance, thanks guys.
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:48 PM
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Re: 1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

Hey, honestly until you drop the oil pan or pull the head, you may not see the true damage. If the rod bent, it may have popped through the block with just a tiny hole you cant see yet. I got a used jdm motor for $900. That is your best bet IMO. And here is my motor that got hydrolocked so I know what it's like lol. Pics of my old hydrolocked motor
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if it's knocking, don't answer it. it's prolly nothing but bad news bears.
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As much as I'd love to see this done, I offer you the same comment I offer everybody else: There's no point in being the first to do something if you're second across the finish line.
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:36 PM
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Re: 1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

Thanks bud, I appreciate your response. I don't have a CAI, and I was moving really slowly, so I'm hoping the extent of the damage is not as significant as yours. If it turns out that it's just the connecting rod bent, I think the whole job could be done for less than $900.
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Old 09-28-2011, 09:13 PM
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Re: 1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

deffinately drop the oil pan and take a look. i hydrolocked my h23a1 and snapped 2 out of 4 connecting rods and sent one throught the block. Now i have a bypass valve on my aem cold air intake.
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Old 09-29-2011, 12:15 AM
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Re: 1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

It is a lot easier to replace the engine. Once you rip it apart there is much more you will need that adds up fast. Also the crank couldve had a lot of stress on it and may be off balance. After you buy rings gaskets do the machine work etc. You will be out the price of a new engine. Plus the headache. With minimal auto experience it should take you a day or two to swap. Takes me about 8 hours by myself. Hehe
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Old 09-29-2011, 03:50 PM
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Re: 1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

When manually cranking, is it necessary to take off the serpentine belt?
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:16 PM
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Re: 1998 HYDROLOCK Prelude help

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Originally Posted by dunw00dy24 View Post
When manually cranking, is it necessary to take off the serpentine belt?
if you're trying to see if the motor will spin freely, you can use a prybar to spin the flywheel through the space where you would aim the timing gun when checking your timing. and no, you dont need to remove the serpentine belt.
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connecting rods, engine rebuild, hydrolock, piston rings, piston rods


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