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Dr J's interior illumination thread

 
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:04 PM
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Dr J's interior illumination thread

so, since i havent had the time to put all my research and mods together in one thread im just going to start piece at a time. this thread will cover my led conversion for each and every last bit of light on the inside of a 97 ss. i will not be including any removal instructions as they can be easily found elsewhere on this site. in the near future i will add guides for installing regular leds in every component of the interior except the dome and trunk. all thes are complete and have tons of pics. just need to get them here. this will include

gauge backlighting
gauge idiot lights and turn signals
auto gear indicator (p,r,n,d,d3,2,1)
sportshift gear display(1,2,3,4)
climate control backlighting
climate control indicator buttons
4 way/hazzard indicator
clock
dimmer
cruise control backlight and indicator
fog light backlight and indicator
sunroof
auto window light in door
heated seat backlight and high/low indicators
heated mirror indicator
dome and map lights

ill start with a list of bulb sizes for all the switches and backlighting.

gauge cluster backlighting, 4 x #74 any model, tripower, 5 smt, supernova. theres tons of room in there
all others in gauge cluster #74 same as above
coin tray #74 stay small with a single led or smt led
console auto gear selector #74 same as coin tray
climate control backlight 3 x neowedge type b
climate control indicators 8 regular 12v leds with a little sanding
dome and map light 3 x #194
all others are neowedge type A
window x 1, cruise x 2, hazzard x 1, dimmer x 1, roof x 1, fogs x 2, heated seat x 1 for each side, heated mirror x 1


todays addition will be the conversion of the auto p,r,n,d,d,2,1 from incandescent to led.

this is a tricky little mod that requires the use of a voltmeter, soldering iron, leds, resistors and some patience.

so, remove the gauge cluster, flip it over and remove all screws on the back. this will give you three pieces, speedo, tach and the auto part. the back of the auto part is only held on with simple snaps and there is a screw holding the 1,2,3,4 circuit board to the face which will need to be undone to get it completely apart. at this point you should have this.



so the next step is to remove all the lights. those black rubber holders simply slide off the board and the light bulbs you will see have wires that just wrap through the holes. you need to remove the bulbs from holders. use diffused 12v leds or use regular leds and sand it so you cant see inside. take your leds and put them in the same way the other ones were. one little thing, you will notice that the led doesnt fit in the hole where the bulb was. two choices, sand down the sides of each led so they fit or use a drill bit and make the holes a hint wider. you dont need a drill as you will see it is easily done by spinning the drill bit by hand. now, you need to mount them back on the board but leds are polar meaning they must go on a certain way. the longer wire of an led is the anode or positive and the shorter is the cathode or negative. another way to tell is the smaller piece inside the led is the positive. the p,r,n,d3,2,1 all mount the same with the positive near the edge of the board and the negative near the wiring harness connector. the d4 is opposite. you are still not done. leds are not designed to handle full load conditions. this is what led resistors are for. now we need to wire them in. fortunately all the positives are grouped together except the d4. so what we need to do is follow the positive copper trace, cut it somewhere then rebuild it with a resistor. here is a pic of the this part



if you look closely you will see that all the terminals connect together then run under the resistor i have soldered in. under the resistor i have cut the trace with an knife. not too deep though. so that takes care of all the lights except the d4. depending which year of lude you have, there are two ways i have found so far. hear is a pic of the same process on a different trace.





notice the cut under the resistor beside the H. now to confirm your work. use the voltmeter to confirm resistance where you cut the traces you should get the value of the resistor you installed. i used about 3000 ohms i think. under 1000 and they seemed too bright but any value will do. if you get a reading of 0 then your trace is still intact. in the next pic i have the display out of a 98 i believe which is slightly different. i just found a different place to cut the trace for the d4 and i also soldered the leds directly onto the posts



next. use the diode function on the voltmeter. put the red lead on a positive terminal and move the black lead on the negatives. each led should light up like this and not if you reverse them. dont forget the d4 is reversed. if all this checks out take it out to your car just like that and hook it up to the green wiring harness in your dash. turn your key to the on position. the p and d4 lights should come on and then the d4 will go out. if this isnt the case, turn your key back immediately and start troubleshooting. odds are you blew an led because it was backwards. if p and d4 success, push the brake pedal and move the shifter. mine are blue and look like this.



with the red and green filters they actually show up with a tinge of purple. any questions please post them here and not through pm. any suggestions on how to make this guide better please pm me. cheers and best of luck.


sportshift gear display(1,2,3,4)

so, if you are ever looking to change the red display to white,green,orange or blue, its really simple in concept. the display is a 14DIP 3.3v 0.39 inch common cathode seven segment led display with the common pins being 1 and 6. just desolder the display and solder in the new one. obviously i went with the blue as shown in the pic above. rohm semiconductors makes them with a part# of LA-401BN for blue and different colours are indicated by the second last digit. green is LA-401MN. i believe Lite on also has one. the size just has to be close. .39 or .4 will do which is equivalent to around 10mm. keep in mind, this is the direct replacement. many other displays are out there but make sure you stick to the common pins of 1 and 6 and with the. i used 3 and 8 common pins because they were more readily available and just rewired the entire board that the display mounts on but i wouldnt recommend this for a novice. here is a link to the actual replacement parts data sheet. http://www.rohm.com/products/databoo...f/la-401dn.pdf good luck

Dimmer switch

once you get the switch cluster out and get the dimmer apart, its actually really simple. i just cut the trace for the positive wire and put in a resistor in its place. wired the led diredtly to the pads where the bulb would have been with the positive side of the led where the resistor is.heres pics.




cruise control switch

here is a pic with instructions, would like to get a chance to do them all this way. after cuts and repair install an led.


Last edited by Drjless; 05-17-2011 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:12 PM
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Re: Dr J's interior illumination thread

for future consideration.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:53 PM
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Re: Dr J's interior illumination thread

Ooooo very excited.

Just recently did almost all of my car however, my climate control is currently too dim in blue for my liking.

Interested to see how you are going to do it because I have seen it done with blue while still being bright.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:33 PM
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Re: Dr J's interior illumination thread

nice mod... I know you answered a few peoples questions about how to change those lights.

I just need to sit down with you and show you a few tricks to clean up your soldering technique and you would be golden! Nice creative work tho.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:50 PM
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Re: Dr J's interior illumination thread

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Originally Posted by LilMsPrelude View Post
nice mod... I know you answered a few peoples questions about how to change those lights.

I just need to sit down with you and show you a few tricks to clean up your soldering technique and you would be golden! Nice creative work tho.
such the perfectionist. this is probably the reason we get along so well.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:04 PM
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Re: Dr J's interior illumination thread

do i know you.... the talk is familiar.. actually that pic wasnt supposed to be on here. unfortunately i didnt take pics of the nice looking product. those resistors must have been on and off about 15 times as i was testing the light output from different r values to match the gauge backlighting.

btw op updated to include ss 1,2,3,4 mod
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:07 PM
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Re: Dr J's interior illumination thread

^ you did a great job, probably better than I would do. practice makes perfect bro.
good mod.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:03 PM
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Re: Dr J's interior illumination thread

op updated.
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