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wheel bearing

 
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:20 PM
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wheel bearing

so i was driving home today and my wheel felt like its gonna fall off. im guessing its my wheel bearing. soo how hard will that be? ive never done one
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:33 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

wheel bearings are pressed in, which could be pretty difficult to get out without proper equipment. When mine were bad, I removed the knuckles and took them to a shop, $80 to press them out and press new ones in. took about 30 minutes
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:49 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

^ do this. its a hassle but will save you some serious coin. its what i always do. take out the knuckle, buy a bearing and take it to the guy on the corner with a press. i get mine done for 25 a piece.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:10 AM
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Re: wheel bearing

I have to do my wheel bearings too. Tired of hearing that womp womp womp womp womp womp everywhere I drive. Although it reminds me of Dubstep, it may be funny now, but could end up being serious if my tire came off. That would be one heck of a Dubstep drop!
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:07 AM
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Re: wheel bearing

My mechanic hammers it out and hammers the new ne in. Ghetto... lool
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:45 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

ill take out the knuckle get my dad to bring it to a shop, ill go to work and then put it all back together!!!:) thanks guys!
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:04 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

i havent replaced the one on the lude yet but take a look for some snap rings inside the hub that hold it in place.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:13 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

how much do these go for?
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Old 08-11-2011, 06:05 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

Depends on where you get it.... anywhere from 70-130ish each


Lower price being non-honda obviously.


And only the front need to be pressed - the rear you can do on your own without an issue....
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:12 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

What are the symptoms of bad wheel bearings?
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:38 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewcjduong View Post
My mechanic hammers it out and hammers the new ne in. Ghetto... lool
At work I use a press most of the time, but there has been many occasions where I have just used a big axle nut socket and a big hammer to press the bearings in and out. Like when I do them in my driveway. It works perfectly fine if you know what you are doing and is a LOT cheaper than bringing the spindle to someone to have it pressed out. Ive never had a problem with doing it the hammer and socket way. You just have to make sure it goes in straight and not crooked, and you have to know how far in to go, but you have the same issue if you use the press so... If you wanna save a few more bucks, Get out that big hammer from the toolbox!


Quote:
Originally Posted by dr2day View Post
What are the symptoms of bad wheel bearings?
You will hear a loud droning noise while driving that gets louder with speed, very annoying, almost like a choppy or feathered tire noise. You can tell which side it is if it goes away when you turn in one direction and gets louder in the other direction, try at low and higher speeds. If it makes noise when turning right; The LEFT side is bad. If it goes away more when you turn right and is noisy when you turn left; the RIGHT side one is bad.
OR
They can get so bad that they start making noise all the time no matter which direction you turn, like mind did before I replaced them both..
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:52 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

Hey guys, I've determined my wheel bearing is going and went out to get a new one. I'm just going to take the hub into a shop and get it pressed in but am I going to need to take off any of the ball joints or tie rod to get the hub off? I only ask because I don't have a pickle fork so I'd end up destroying them to get them off
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:53 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

Yeah everything should come off so that you can just take the hub assembly to the shop.

Harbor Freight has a nice tool to remove the ball joints - Item # 99849
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:08 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

And if i use such tool, I would be able to reuse the ball joints I have on there now? Sorry I'm new to this **** lol and I JUST changed both the upper control arms with ball joints on the front.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:15 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

If they're in good condition yes. Would be a good time to degrease and replace the boot covers while you're down there too.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:25 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

And I hear a lot about being careful not to rip the boot. How exactly do you do this without ripping it?
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:26 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

Using the proper tools and being careful. This tool wont damage the boot if used properly.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:29 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

Alright thanks a lot man, now I'm off to find one of these. Not sure if we have harbor freight here in Canada
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:31 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

If you do and need a 20% off coupon let me know. You can also order it geom theiwebsite, or check local auto stores if they tent one that's similar.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:37 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

go to canadian tire, get a ball joint splitter or pickle fork. have a heavy hammer on hand. you will need to split the upper and lower ball joints, the tie rod end as well as remove your drive shaft. start with the drive shaft outer nut. they can be on with the force of god himself. you will likely need a breaker bar as well as a large socket not common to tool sets. you may also need a pipe on the bar. 3/4 inch socket sets are handy for this. princess auto has them on sale regularly. loosen the nut with the car fully on the ground. once loose, jack your car up. undo your tie rod end and completely undo the drive shaft nut. rotate the knuckle and tap, dont smash, the drive shaft from the outside with a hammer protecting the shaft with a piece of wood or something to not damage the threads. if it moves just a bit, you are mint. you can also pry from the back where the cv boot is but dont damage the boot. once its loose in the knuckle, split the upper and lower balljoints and it should just all fall apart. when you are splitting the joints, the damage comes from either jabbing the fork into the boot or debris tearing the boot ans the fork goes in. clean it up and glob on some grease. this will provide effortless penetration. DO NOT hit the studs of the joints with a hammer. they distort fast and youll never get the nut back on. have a drill handy to drill out the cotterpin holes when you go to put it back together. lots of steps but really one foot in front of the other. good luck
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:58 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

Wow, thank you so much Drjless that should be everything I need to know. Planning on starting in the morning. Is there a special tool needed, aside from the ball joint separator, to separate the tie rod?
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:09 AM
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Re: wheel bearing

same tool for tie rods and balljjoints. when you get your fork, you need the one with about a half inch hole down the middle. buy em both and return the one you dont use. also when you are at canaadian tire. they do have a tool for the driveshaft that will be in their lend a tool inventory. its like a 3 jaw puller same as a steering wheel removal tool. cheers
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:33 AM
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Re: wheel bearing

Sounds complicated but I'll give it my all. Thanks again. Whats this business about drilling out the cotter pin holes though?

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Old 04-26-2013, 09:21 AM
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Re: wheel bearing

and do I need this driveshaft tool or can I use the tapping method in your previous post?
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:05 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

I use an Autozone tie rod separator to break the ball joints from the knuckle. It is C-shaped with a screw in the center. Slip the "fingers" at the ends of the C over the knuckle and tighten the screw. One doesn't have to break it with the pressure from the screw alone. Just get it good and tight and rap the side of the knuckle at the ball joint with a steel hammer and it pops right out.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:34 PM
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Re: wheel bearing

hopefully you are done by now but, most times the driveshaft just needs a little motivation to start. keep the upper and lowers on till you get it loose. forgot to mention, if you pull hard enough, you will pull it out of the tranny. thats one reason to leave the upper and lower on till you break it loose. as for the drill, depending on how long the balljoints have been there, the cotterpin that holds the castle nut in place has probably disintegrated. half the time i dont bother trying to get it out. just put a socket on and it breaks. either way, you may have rusted fused leftover pins in the holes. thats what the drill is for. ofter there are 4 holes in the stud. usually i drill through the holes where the pin wasnt. let us know how you make out. also, if you havent done it yet, when you go to undo the axlenut, you will notice someone has bent the flange of the nut. this is done on purpose to stop it from accidentally spinning off. you should try to bend it out before you try to turn the nut and bend it back when you are done.
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