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Got my Lude, it came with smoke issues.

 
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Old 07-16-2007, 08:43 AM
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Got my Lude, it came with smoke issues.

Ok, so as of Saturday, I became the proud owner of a 97 Type SH, and I LOVE it already. I feel in love immediately, and bought it even though I knew it needed work. Ok, so here are a few symptoms maybe a few of you guys can help me out with.

First of all, the car is 10 years old, and the body needs some work, but that's no big deal to me, I'll get that all done when I'm ready to paint the car. So here is my main concern. While I was driving it home, my girlfriend and a good friend of mine were in the car behind me, and my friend told me that everytime I downshifted and took off, the car "let out a puff of smoke and then took off". He said it didn't continually smoke, but it did puff smoke everytime I really got on her. I also noticed a tap while I was driving it home, so I'm thinking maybe my valves/seats are worn, and that's where my smoke is coming from. Any thoughts on that idea? I should know a little more once I do a compression test. Also, if it is indeed the valves, what are some good brands for replacement? Crower seems to have some pretty affordable valves, are they any good? Also, would I see any performance increases if I go with high compression valves? or would they only yield results with high compression pistons, because I'm not diving into the bottom end anytime soon, I just don't have the money.

Also, I should probably note that performance-wise, the car feels wonderful, even with the obvious tap and smoke issues. It handles like an effin' champ, and I'm very pleased with the pep of the car, and how wonderful it sounds under WOT. It sounds like sex when shiftin' hard. I can actually hear the friggin' intake gulping in the air. Sounds amazing, even 100% stock.

Another symptom of the car, is that sometimes when I go into 1st gear (or sometimes second if the car is rolling slow enough) too low in the rpm range, the engine and/or tranny really seem to rattle around. I'm not saying I'm making the car lurch or anything (I know how to drive stick), it just seems like either the engine, the tranny, or both, really rattle around if I don't give her just enough gas. Could this be mounts?

I plan on replacing my spark plugs, head gasket, valves, springs, valve seats, possibly valve guides, timing belt, water pump, and the gasket between the valve cover and the head all at the same time when I pull the head off. Anything else I should look into replacing while I'm in there? You think this will clear up my tap/smoke issues? Unless the cams are shot, I'll probably keep them in for the time being. I'm probably going to go with mostly OEM stuff, maybe some type S parts, because I want to keep my ATTS working.

Last edited by BadMofo; 07-16-2007 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:22 AM
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the smoke issue doesnt sound like any real problem. when you down shifted, did you down shift into vtec? ludes run rich in vtec. ask him what color the smoke is... if its a dark gray its normal. however if its white or blue i would check it out. but honestly it sounds normal.

the tap is just the valve lash. it just needs adjusting.

if you plan on replacing the timing belt you might as well go ahead and do the h23 auto tensioner swap.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:55 AM
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if you plan on replacing the timing belt you might as well go ahead and do the h23 auto tensioner swap.
you mean manual, not auto

but yea, H22's have been known to smoke a lil, especially while in vtec. they'll also burn a lil bit of oil
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Old 07-16-2007, 05:18 PM
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Ok so I've found a new problem. Today when I got home from work and hopped in it to drive it for a bit, something new started happening. When I take it out of gear and the rpms drop off, they drop all the way down to almost 0 and if I don't give it a little bit of gas, it'll all but stall out. Now I noticed when I first got it, that it idled very low (500 rpm), but it wasn't dipping below that when I would come to a stop. Now all of a sudden today it is dropping down to almost 0. Also I noticed that sometimes when I start the car, it cranks up, runs for a split second, and then either stalls out completely, or (if I hold the key in the start position) sputters for a few cycles before it resumes a normal idle.

What do you guys think? Fuel filter/injectors/pump? Remember that this thing has 127000 miles on it, so I know some **** needs to be replaced asap. I plan on removing, degreasing, and replacing any gaskets for my IACV, PCV, EGR valve, and VTEC solenoid. I'm thinking that that may help a bit.
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:22 PM
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Unfortunately, what you are describing is one of those ailments that could be attributed to a myriad of factors.

Firs thing to check I'd say is your throttle position sensor.

Has the car been modified at all? Could be some sort of a vaccum leak. When it warms up and doesn't malfunction, where do the rpms sit? Could be that somebody turned the idle down for some reason. Sometimes when that's the case, if you take it out of gear from, say, 5000 rpms, it will take the car a second to catch those rpms and if it falls to low it's just going to kill.

Oh, any check engine light?
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:03 PM
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Exhaust valve seals.
Replace that.
That will cease your, "puff" of smoke.

Do a full tuneup, dont leave out what you mentioned in post #4 and get back to us.
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Old 07-16-2007, 08:23 PM
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It it only puffs for a second when you downshift... Its not a problem. Its a Prelude thing. If it stays smoking for a second.. I would change valve seals. Still not that much of a biggy.

As for the idle... it might just be the manifold. There is a screw you can adjust to change the idle. ( Can someone please show him the where the screw is since i dont have a lude anymore. And there is also a butterfly metal hose you can adjust also. ( again.. show the guy )

Other then that. Get a tune up.
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Old 07-16-2007, 09:04 PM
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that puff of smoke is due most likely to the weak ringlands on the h22 slugs. the piston rings flutter far too much causing some blowby. replace then with some type S pistons and it will stop for a while. unless you just sleeve the block and go with some nice forged aftermarket pistons lol
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Old 07-17-2007, 11:46 AM
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Ok so when I get home today, I plan on removing and cleaning my IACV with some Sea-Foam to see if that helps at all with my idling issues. I also plan on doing a partial tune-up this weekend. I ordered a JDM Hamp Synergy oil filter (5.99 from ICBMotorsports), a new VTEC solenoid gasket, a new intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, a new throttle body gasket, and some Honda manual transmission fluid for good measure. Once I get a little lower on gas, I plan on adding some high mileage fuel injector cleaner, and if that doesn't work, I plan on replacing the fuel filter. Next weekend I'll try to get around to doing a little more, maybe spark plugs, valve seals, check some valve clearances, new head gasket and valve cover gasket, and timing belt and water pump if I have the money.

By the way, the car is bone stock. Never been modified at all. The rpms sit at about 500 at idle once it warms up. Seems low to me. Anyone know what is normal?

Anyone know anything about servicing the ATTS system? Someone told me to use automatic transmission fluid.

Also, I wanna change my O2 sensors too just for good measure (trying to get everything as close to new as possible). Anyone know of any decent aftermarket direct fit o2 sensors? The OEM ones are too friggin expensive lol.

One last kind of unrelated thing, I'm looking to drop my ride at some point (for PERFORMANCE not looks). I noticed that there are very few shocks available for the Type SH. I am thinking about buying new/remanufactured OEM shocks and putting some Neuspeed or Tanabe sport/race springs on them. This seems much cheaper than the very few full coilover kits that there are available. Anyone have any thoughts on that? Worth it or not?

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Old 07-17-2007, 02:30 PM
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It sounds like you're tackling a lot of the possible causes.

If your idle is sitting low, I would certainly just turn it up with a screw. I am new to preludes, but on most cars you can raise or lower the idle manually by adusting the angle that the throttle body plate sits at. And as you turn the screw/bolt, whatever it is, you will hear the car idle up or down slightly.
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BadMofo View Post
Ok so when I get home today, I plan on removing and cleaning my IACV with some Sea-Foam to see if that helps at all with my idling issues. I also plan on doing a partial tune-up this weekend. I ordered a JDM Hamp Synergy oil filter (5.99 from ICBMotorsports), a new VTEC solenoid gasket, a new intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, a new throttle body gasket, and some Honda manual transmission fluid for good measure. Once I get a little lower on gas, I plan on adding some high mileage fuel injector cleaner, and if that doesn't work, I plan on replacing the fuel filter. Next weekend I'll try to get around to doing a little more, maybe spark plugs, valve seals, check some valve clearances, new head gasket and valve cover gasket, and timing belt and water pump if I have the money.

By the way, the car is bone stock. Never been modified at all. The rpms sit at about 500 at idle once it warms up. Seems low to me. Anyone know what is normal?

Anyone know anything about servicing the ATTS system? Someone told me to use automatic transmission fluid.

Also, I wanna change my O2 sensors too just for good measure (trying to get everything as close to new as possible). Anyone know of any decent aftermarket direct fit o2 sensors? The OEM ones are too friggin expensive lol.

One last kind of unrelated thing, I'm looking to drop my ride at some point (for PERFORMANCE not looks). I noticed that there are very few shocks available for the Type SH. I am thinking about buying new/remanufactured OEM shocks and putting some Neuspeed or Tanabe sport/race springs on them. This seems much cheaper than the very few full coilover kits that there are available. Anyone have any thoughts on that? Worth it or not?
the ones available are expensive, but worth the cost. check out JIC Magic, and Tein.
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