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Trying to solve my p1399 problem

 
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:09 AM
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Trying to solve my p1399 problem

First off, I have a CEL code p1399

My car is fine when it's cold but when it warms up, the CEL starts flashing indicating a misfire. I'm sure it's intermittent since turning off the car and restarting it will take it back to a solid CEL. Not only that, I can't feel the misfire at all. It seems to drive fine with lots of power and everything. I do have a slightly rough idle but it's barely noticeable. This is what I've done so far trying to eliminate the problem:

seafoam
pcv valve
distributor cap/rotor/wires and distributor
spark plugs
cleaned EGR valve and new gasket
cleaned IAC valve
cleaned EGR ports

I'm thinking about doing new o2 sensor and/or fuel injectors. I have a new fuel filter I'm going to be installing. If that doesn't do it, then valve adjustment. I did pull the plug wires with the car running and the car does bog down when I pull them out, in every cylinder so I'm sure it's not a bad cylinder. I'm just looking for ideas as the code p1399 isn't detailed as to what it can be.

Last edited by oslouie; 02-14-2011 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 06:39 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

I'm going to be trying a new o2 sensor tomorrow. Any objections since the o2 sensor has it's own code?
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:01 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

OK. Did my compression testing this morning with a cold motor. Here are the numbers from left to right(if you're standing in front of the car:

150-150-150-90

Where do I go from here? Bad valve or ring? Is 150 too low in the other cylinders? What is a decent price to pay to have the work done if any of you have had experience with this? Thanks.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:21 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

Did more testing. Motor is warm this time. This is what I got:

185-185-185-90

with oil in the cylinder, I got:

190-190-190-120

Is this still the valve or could it be rings now?
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:41 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

^^^ yeah i got the same exact problem as you right now except different cylinder. the way cylinders are numbered is from timing belt (which is driver side of engine)...so it sounds like ur cyl. #1 has bad compression. and it seems like u have pretty low compression all across.. i have a 01 prelude SH and im pulling 210 in all cylinders except #2 which is at 165, but if i add oil to #2 during comp. test it shoots to almost 190.. my guess is your piston rings are shot. i still havent gotten around to fixin mine either.. keep us posted bro, looks like we're in the same boat. :(
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:05 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

sounds like classic piston ring failure, if you had any plans for the lower end now's the time to do it!
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:14 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

^^^ someone told me its a common thing for 5th gens. to have the misfire problem.. idk bout that. true or bull****? lol
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:34 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

IDK. I was leaning towards rings too but alot of older guys with experience doing these things (not to mention built hod rods) say it's still valves, not rings. I'm confused now. These parts are not readily available here and I'd have to order parts if anything so I want it all lined up when the head comes off. I don't want to order valves and not need them then be stuck with them.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:24 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

Can someone tell me how long I would be able to keep driving it like this? I know it's not a great idea but I need to make it at least 1 month before I could get the work done. What can potentially happen if I don't get it done soon?
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:30 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Originally Posted by oslouie View Post
IDK. I was leaning towards rings too but alot of older guys with experience doing these things (not to mention built hod rods) say it's still valves, not rings. I'm confused now. These parts are not readily available here and I'd have to order parts if anything so I want it all lined up when the head comes off. I don't want to order valves and not need them then be stuck with them.
if u ran the compression test and then added oil to the problem cylinder and ur copression went up a lil bit its your rings.. like i said im gettin ready 2 do the same thing to mine and i thought, heck why not buy new pistons and rings and valves and i'll redo the whole head n shieettt..
it all depends on how many miles ur whip has...mine just hit 90K but the idiot i bought it from didnt know how to drive for shiitt!!

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Originally Posted by oslouie View Post
Can someone tell me how long I would be able to keep driving it like this? I know it's not a great idea but I need to make it at least 1 month before I could get the work done. What can potentially happen if I don't get it done soon?
well mine had this problem when i bought it, and that was about 7 months ago.. who knows how long its been like that before i bought it.. im still driving it around, but what i do to try and prevent further damage i shift around 3K rpm.. nvr really smashed on it either cuz i dnt wanna cause more damage
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:58 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

had this same problem, eventually all of my rings went and i had like no compression in any of them and car dies :P im fixing mine right now and its looking like the bill is going to be $3,000+ but I'm building my head and the lower end with some type s pistons, head is going to have stunk2 tuner valve springs high compression valves and titanium retainers plus a few other goodies like Fidanza 8 pound flywheel and Exedy stage 1 clutch! :)
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:26 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

^^ i was gonna say wtf??? thats why ur bill is over 3 grand cuz of all the extra goodies.. lol

otherwise it would be only a few hundred bucks.
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:16 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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^^ i was gonna say wtf??? thats why ur bill is over 3 grand cuz of all the extra goodies.. lol

otherwise it would be only a few hundred bucks.
Hellz no. Tell me where to get hat deal. I just talked some more to my mechanic today. He said might as well just get a whole new(used) motor if it's the rings because either way, you'll have to pull the motor. I feel totally screwed now. I think I'm just gonna save up and buy another motor and drive this one to the ground in the meantime. I don't know what's cheaper; buying another motor or having this one pulled to do the work on the block. I'm just going stock internals since I'm not gonna have big plans for it.
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:19 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

its a few bills (under a grand) in OEM parts.. i plan to do the labor myself and maybe w/ a friend. i dnt like others tweakin w/ my shiittt.. and btw, no need to pull the whole motor out (although its easier to work on when its out) just take off head and oil pan and u can do the work that way.. i live in an apt. which sucks cuz obviously i cant work on my lude here.. im waiting for a buddy's shop to be available so i can use the space
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:07 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

Does anybody think I should attempt a valve adjustment or would that not help in this case? Keep in mind that I just got this car 2 months ago.
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:30 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Originally Posted by psylocke View Post
this is interesting. do you have Auto Repair Manuals for this? if you have it this isnt gonna be that hard as you think bec. you can trace it asap.
I do have the downloaded Helms but I don't think I can figure it out without a leakdown test. It's just not the right time for this to be happening that's why I'm just looking at ideas and experiences that others have gone through.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:29 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

Leak down test is not necesary. Ikeepzitclean is right....if you added oil to the cylinder and compression went up its piston issue. Does your car smoke at all? To do a leak down test.... you can borrow or a buy an actually leak down tested or or use a compression tester hose from the snap on compression tester kit. Add air from a compressor with each cylinder you test in top dead center. That means as you check each cylinder the piston needs to be completely up. I use a long thin screw drive and rotate the motor with a 19mm socket on the crank to accurately get the piston tdc. If you hear air passing through intake its an intake valve ......passing through exhaust.....obviously exhaust valve.

I would just invest in pistons. Type s or mahle 500. Cometic headgasket 87mm 100-.Arp head studs 130-.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:33 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Leak down test is not necesary. Ikeepzitclean is right....if you added oil to the cylinder and compression went up its piston issue. Does your car smoke at all? To do a leak down test.... you can borrow or a buy an actually leak down tested or or use a compression tester hose from the snap on compression tester kit. Add air from a compressor with each cylinder you test in top dead center. That means as you check each cylinder the piston needs to be completely up. I use a long thin screw drive and rotate the motor with a 19mm socket on the crank to accurately get the piston tdc. If you hear air passing through intake its an intake valve ......passing through exhaust.....obviously exhaust valve.

I would just invest in pistons. Type s or mahle 500. Cometic headgasket 87mm 100-.Arp head studs 130-.
Plus labor and that's more than another motor right there.
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:45 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Originally Posted by Bustr View Post
Leak down test is not necesary. Ikeepzitclean is right....if you added oil to the cylinder and compression went up its piston issue. Does your car smoke at all? To do a leak down test.... you can borrow or a buy an actually leak down tested or or use a compression tester hose from the snap on compression tester kit. Add air from a compressor with each cylinder you test in top dead center. That means as you check each cylinder the piston needs to be completely up. I use a long thin screw drive and rotate the motor with a 19mm socket on the crank to accurately get the piston tdc. If you hear air passing through intake its an intake valve ......passing through exhaust.....obviously exhaust valve.

I would just invest in pistons. Type s or mahle 500. Cometic headgasket 87mm 100-.Arp head studs 130-.
yeah i was thinking the same thing, but like he already asked, is it cheaper to get a new motor or invest in his engine.. the thing is u can buy a used motor, but what if that one has the same problem, then ur ****ed x2! lol

btw, i heard quite a lot about u and ur killahh builds around here Bustr.. how much would it run me to fix this kinda problem (parts mainly, since i plan to do the labor myself)?? i nvr had this kind of problem w/ any of my cars b4 so yeah.. PM me if u can.. thnx ahead.
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:54 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

I charge in labor...
bottom end :
assemble entire rotating assembly including balanced crank, kaizen speed balanced shaft eliminator, and paint 600-700 depending on extras.

Head :
put head on 100-
port and polish intake side of head 100-
dual valve springs and retainers 100-
paint valve cover free and mod valve cover (cut to expose cam gears ) free.
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:59 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

Okay if just wanted a new motor ....its not going to be new its going to have miles on it.
I would go jdm which can run from 800-1000. Also do u want to upgrade and get a jem motor with jdm transmission with lsd? That would run another 600-800 more.
If u rebuild....u can replace whatever seals you want and make more power with the parts you put into it.
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Old 02-21-2011, 05:48 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Originally Posted by Bustr View Post
Okay if just wanted a new motor ....its not going to be new its going to have miles on it.
I would go jdm which can run from 800-1000. Also do u want to upgrade and get a jem motor with jdm transmission with lsd? That would run another 600-800 more.
If u rebuild....u can replace whatever seals you want and make more power with the parts you put into it.
I'm having a hard time even finding just a motor that will mate up to the SH transmission for that price (or less).
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:31 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Originally Posted by Bustr View Post
I charge in labor...
bottom end :
assemble entire rotating assembly including balanced crank, kaizen speed balanced shaft eliminator, and paint 600-700 depending on extras.

Head :
put head on 100-
port and polish intake side of head 100-
dual valve springs and retainers 100-
paint valve cover free and mod valve cover (cut to expose cam gears ) free.
im bout to PM u.. thnx

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bustr View Post
Okay if just wanted a new motor ....its not going to be new its going to have miles on it.
I would go jdm which can run from 800-1000. Also do u want to upgrade and get a jem motor with jdm transmission with lsd? That would run another 600-800 more.
If u rebuild....u can replace whatever seals you want and make more power with the parts you put into it.
i hear so much talk about LSD being soo much better than ATTS.. plus the H22A is a bitch to find..and not only that, but there's no way my **** will pass inspection out here in Cali w/ that kind of swap. dnt get me wrong, i'd love to swap a JDM into mine, but legally im ****ed. and i got WAYY too much on my record to **** w/ that at this point. lol pretty soon got family starting up, gotta settle down

Quote:
Originally Posted by oslouie View Post
I'm having a hard time even finding just a motor that will mate up to the SH transmission for that price (or less).
im right there with u.. especially around here its soo damn hard to find a legit H22A4 motor...let alone a H22A..impossible and very RARELY when i do find one its hella overpriced.
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Last edited by ikeepzitclean; 02-21-2011 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 02-22-2011, 12:53 AM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Originally Posted by ikeepzitclean View Post
im bout to PM u.. thnx



i hear so much talk about LSD being soo much better than ATTS.. plus the H22A is a bitch to find..and not only that, but there's no way my **** will pass inspection out here in Cali w/ that kind of swap. dnt get me wrong, i'd love to swap a JDM into mine, but legally im ****ed. and i got WAYY too much on my record to **** w/ that at this point. lol pretty soon got family starting up, gotta settle down



im right there with u.. especially around here its soo damn hard to find a legit H22A4 motor...let alone a H22A..impossible and very RARELY when i do find one its hella overpriced.
To be quite honest, a legit or non-legit motor does not bother me. You already know that the SH tranny will only bolt up to the SH motor. I can't find a damn SH motor for nothin.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:18 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

^^^ yea man, but a jdm type S motor should mate to a SH tranny.. cuz the type S motor has an ATTS tranny too.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:37 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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^^^ yea man, but a jdm type S motor should mate to a SH tranny.. cuz the type S motor has an ATTS tranny too.
True BUT, JDM motors are $$$. Put yourself in my shoes. I just bought this thing in December for $5400 and have close to another $1k in new parts for it. I'm not prepared to spend another $1-2k for a motor and then pay to have the swap done. I guess what I'm really trying to say is that I'm looking for the cheapest route right now.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:33 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

I just got a quote today to hone and bore my block to the next oversize piston. Now, When they do this, they have to remove the pistons and rings right? So I'm guessing that re-installing new pistons and rings wouldn't cost more than what I was quoted?
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:04 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

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Originally Posted by oslouie View Post
I just got a quote today to hone and bore my block to the next oversize piston. Now, When they do this, they have to remove the pistons and rings right? So I'm guessing that re-installing new pistons and rings wouldn't cost more than what I was quoted?
If you just got a quote for bore and hone then they usually expect that you already have a bare block to give to them...
I would invest the money in your motor a rebuild it because then you will have a motor with basically 0 miles on it. But the type s motor will bolt onto the type SH tranny if you wanna go that route, but then you are getting a used motor (I know it will probably only have like 40k miles but they beat on their cars in japan because they can't keep their motors long anyways) plus a type s motor is like $3,000
If you just wanna fix your motor yourself its not gonna be too expensive:

Valve job (not necessary but recommended ) $200
bore & hone (bore not always needed) $250
if bored new pistons $300 (type s 11:1 CR pistons)
rings $150
head gasket $50
head bolts $50
cam seal $30 (for a nice one, may as well while your under there)
bearings $100 (may as well )
timing belt (no better time to do it) $350
miss. seals & gaskets $200

and the grand total comes to about $1,700 (you may also spend $300 or so on tools such as a torque wrench, impact wrench, breaker bar and a couple other tools you may need)
(i know that sounds like a lot but you will replace a lot of things that some shops would just re-do and you will have a better motor because of it!)
plus if you want to throw in some other aftermarket parts it is the perfect time to do so.

plus you have to remember that motor will be basically the type s motor, with 0 miles on it, so that saves you at least $1,000 from buying the type s motor!
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Idaho
where "driving" is synonomous with "rally"



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Old 02-23-2011, 11:19 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

Can I use standard compression valves if going with type S pistons? I'm thinking these:
Skunk2 Honda H22A Valve Set +0.5mm - eBay (item 120686163512 end time Feb-23-11 21:14:45 PST)
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:28 PM
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Re: Trying to solve my p1399 problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by oslouie View Post
Can I use standard compression valves if going with type S pistons? I'm thinking these:
Skunk2 Honda H22A Valve Set +0.5mm - eBay (item 120686163512 end time Feb-23-11 21:14:45 PST)
Yes, you can use either, but you will not need new valves and you do not want oversized valves, because it will cost quite a bit more to get oversized valves because a machine shop will have to cut all of your valve seats. Why do you want new valves?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havikprelude View Post
Idaho
where "driving" is synonomous with "rally"



Seriously...wtf is up with your roads?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kidinplay93 View Post
From to
Buy my stuff and help me finish my rebuild 5th Gen Parts
Reply With Quote
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