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Old 06-21-2007, 03:42 PM
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NooB with tech questions...NEED HELP!!!

Hey guys,

I am planning to buy a 5th gen Honda Prelude SH. I've done some research and I have read some things about the ATTS disabling once you go turbo and needing a piggyback ecu or something like that...I am coming from a G35 and I want to build an engine that can run against 350Z's G35's s2000's etc....I'm thinking somewhere around 300-400 whp. However, I dont know where to even start when building a motor.

I kno you need an ECU upgrade, headers, cams, intercooler, intake, an exhaust to relieve backpressure, but after that I'm clueless. Of course I'm gonna throw sways, and coilovers but aside from that I have no clue. Can you keep the tech jargon down as well, bc i read through some of the forum and didnt know what the hell they were talking about.

(***Note: I dont plan to do the work myself, probably take it to a shop, but I dont want to get jerked around at the shop when it comes to $$$ feel me?)

So to recap:

1) What is the most hp I can get with bolt-ons? (as I would probably do those those first to hold me over until I go FI)

2) Which bolt-ons would be worth keeping once I go FI

3) Without building the motor, what is the most hp that can be achieved going FI?

4) What is the difference in having ATTS and not having it?

5) What are the shortfalls of keeping the stock ECU with a piggyback vs changing the ECU altogether and losing the ATTS?

6) What upgrades do I absolutely need to go FI and reduce the risk of blowing my motor.

7) Any other tips, suggestions and/or recommendations I would greatly appreciate.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Can anyone also provide me with a list of mods that I would need or should consider in terms of building the internals? I just want to cover my *ss and also make sure that I'm constantly making progress as this will be an ongoing project and not a one shot deal.

Last edited by Archer Troy; 06-21-2007 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 06-21-2007, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer Troy View Post
1) What is the most hp I can get with bolt-ons? (as I would probably do those those first to hold me over until I go FI) with just bolt ons you wont get but 5hp.... seriously maybe 10 if your lucky

2) Which bolt-ons would be worth keeping once I go FI
intake and exhaust. depending on the exhaust diameter.... header is pointless because you will need a turbo manifold when you go FI... unless you go supercharger of course.

3) Without building the motor, what is the most hp that can be achieved going FI? there really is no set power.. but i wouldnt push more then 8psi unless you have a REALLY GOOD TUNE

4) What is the difference in having ATTS and not having it? weight.. all it does is help improve handling. and it acts up when you start getting into serious power.. buy a base or just pull the fuse for it.

5) What are the shortfalls of keeping the stock ECU with a piggyback vs changing the ECU altogether and losing the ATTS? with just a piggy back you wont get any power out of a turbo. you will probably eventually blow your motor... better off changing ECU and pulling fuse for atts.

6) What upgrades to I absolutely need to go FI and reduce the risk of blowing my motor. not very knowledgable on FI but someone else will help you here.

7) Any other tips, suggestions and/or recommendations I would greatly appreciate.

Thanks in advance.
answers in red hope this helps..

other things i noticed you asked that really werent covered by your questions... if you go FI you wont necessarily need cams. yea they will help but most people keep the stock cams in their turbo'd lude... again header is pointless with a turbo. 300-400hp will be more then enough to kill stock s2k's g35's and Z's. i think your confused about what a piggyback is... piggybacks are like the VAFC vtec controllers... you want a whole new ECU. i cant remember off the top of my head but the ECU's that most people use are P28's and P72's. correct me if im wrong. they are from a civic and an integra. not sure what years though. someone else can help with that.
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Last edited by Beaker; 06-21-2007 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 06-21-2007, 04:51 PM
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ok cool....I appreciate it...but I also want to be able to go after cars that have been modded as well...no fun killing a stock car(at least not all the time...lol )
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:03 PM
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if you have ANY intentions at all to go FI, you'd be better off getting a base model instead of the SH, cuz like you said, the ATTS starts crapping out 'round 250whp'ish.
also if you wanna go FI, get an exhaust that has at least 2.5" piping.
intake, get a no-name piping off ebay, BPi velocity stack and a K&N filter, which you MIGHT be able to use as an intake for a turbo (like i did) and you most likely will be able to use it for a supercharger.
ECU is a MUST for ALL applications.
unlike your G, we only have a header, not headers fyi . can only keep w/ a SC.

on a stock block, you can make around 250-280 horsepower safely. anything more than that your gonna hafta rebuild the block w/ forged internals and get it sleeved cuz the weakest part of our motors are the ringlands which like to take a poopie whenever they feel like it. iron sleeves + forged pistons and rods... equals one happy motor
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
on a stock block, you can make around 250-280 horsepower safely. anything more than that your gonna hafta rebuild the block w/ forged internals and get it sleeved cuz the weakest part of our motors are the ringlands which like to take a poopie whenever they feel like it. iron sleeves + forged pistons and rods... equals one happy motor
is that 250 to the wheels or to the crank?
BPi velocity stack??? what is that?
what are ringlands? the piston rings?
what do you mean sleeved? what are iron sleeves? do they go on the pistons? lol
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:29 PM
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great posts guys. but horse power has nothing to do with atts. it's the torque that is the independent variable. Roughly around 170ft/tq it disables itself.
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:41 PM
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i actually read on another forum that

"The ATTS does not shut off at 220-250hp. It never really shuts off. It just has a hard time coping with the extra power"

"...around that HP the clutches in the ATTS unit begin slipping."
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:01 PM
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ok.... answer this question for me. ATTS means active torque transfer system. Wouldn't this system be dependent on torque?


on a side note: usually when you are make around 220-230 you are making around 170-180ft/tq. so both cases are true. But the system has nothing to do with hp. it has to do with torque.
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:07 PM
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The H22A blocks come with FRM sleeves. (The sleeve is the medium between the piston and the block) and these tend to cause trouble with high HP applications.

Ringlands are the bits between the pistong rings. Think the high points:
_|-|_|-|____

Have a look at Rory's members ride thread for an idea of what can be done. I'm not saying that Rory's car was/is the be all and end all of FI Preludes, but it's a great marker, considering he started with the same sort of goals as you.
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.E.L. View Post
ok.... answer this question for me. ATTS means active torque transfer system. Wouldn't this system be dependent on torque?

on a side note: usually when you are make around 220-230 you are making around 170-180ft/tq. so both cases are true. But the system has nothing to do with hp. it has to do with torque.
LOL....yea I just re-read that....makes sense haha

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Originally Posted by Brash22 View Post
The H22A blocks come with FRM sleeves. (The sleeve is the medium between the piston and the block) and these tend to cause trouble with high HP applications.

Ringlands are the bits between the pistong rings. Think the high points:
_|-|_|-|____

Have a look at Rory's members ride thread for an idea of what can be done. I'm not saying that Rory's car was/is the be all and end all of FI Preludes, but it's a great marker, considering he started with the same sort of goals as you.
Ok cool....I'll check that out...thanks
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