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cable connected to heater valve siezed?

 
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:16 PM
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cable connected to heater valve siezed?

I believe the cable that goes through the firewall and connected to the heater valve is siezed. I tried moving it but it doesnt want to budge. any helpful inputs or thoughts?

Last edited by gqprelude; 10-14-2010 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:26 PM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

$10 part from Honda. Easy to do.
Unhook it from the unit underneath the dash.
In the engine, pull the air intake.
Find the valve along the firewall (it's down there a little bit, but reachable without removing anything else).
I used some screw breaker ****, whatever it's called, on the cable since it was pretty rusted onto the valve and let it soak in for a couple minutes.
Disconnect the cable from the valve with a pair of needle nose pliers. Then rip that bitch through the grommet.
Do not try and remove the grommet! It'll take you forever to get out, and even longer to get a new one back in!
Now, my favorite part...
Go to your girlfriend's sock drawer and get some lube. Apply lube to the sheath of the cable (not on the round holes at the end, you don't want it slipping off the pegs), and from underneath the dash, slip that bitch through the grommet.
Attach the cable to the pegs underneath the dash, and on the valve in the engine. Reattach your air intake, and you're all set.

Seriously took me about 15 minutes to do, and that's with 5 minutes starring at the cable trying to figure out how to get it through the grommet.
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:29 PM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

Part number for the cable: 79544-S30-A00
#6 on the diagram here: Honda Automotive Parts
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:37 PM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

THANKS! Greatly appreciated. Wargames98, if you dont mind me asking, Why did you change yours? Did your climate control freeze up?
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:55 PM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

I did mine about 3 or 4 weeks ago. My cable had seized up and wouldn't pull through the sheath. There's another guide somewhere I think on PO.com where the guy made a different type of cable that shouldn't sieze up. I'll try to find it when I get done with my class here if you want?
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:57 PM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

Sure, if you don't mind. I live in Michigan so i get all kinds of bad weather here. Defrosting my windows with AC in the morning, since it's stuck on cold isn't intriguing either. I need to get this fixed ASAP.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:09 AM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

Write-UP: Fix that damn temp. control cable. Forever! - Preludepower.com
Here ya' go. Also, there's a lever on the heater valve in your engine. Just move the lever over to the other side and it'll be on hot instead of cold.

Where in Michigan are you at? I'm from Monroe (south of Detroit), but I go to school at Eastern in Ypsilanti.
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:34 AM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

I'm from Warren. About 45 mins North of detroit. I tried moving that lever on the heater valve and that plastic piece won't budge either. I think the cable is too tight to let it rotate back to heat.
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:29 PM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

RYT ON!!!

Pressing rep'd a million billion button.
Thank you for the link.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:54 PM
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Re: cable connected to heater valve siezed?

Gonna add some info here. A mini how to of sorts.
Lube the cable housing that goes through the firewall.

New cable acquired. $10.95 at the dealer.

^^ part # please.


^^ old vs new.
You can see the cable housing re-enforcement rusts so bad it bursts the covering.
Yep, it's stuck... from now on.
You'd think Honda would do us a favor and change the dang cable housing re-enforcement ribbon to a non ferrous (as in don't rust). But I figure they have thousands of them laying around so why not sell them. Hey, I bought one.

But....


^^ oil that sucka.
Instead of hoping it doesn't rust I figured why not use my kid bike-bike chain oiling system.
Used motor oil and water bottle with tiny holes in the cap.


^^ hang the cable.
Place a pair of drops of oil on the cable. Let ooze into the housing. Then a couple more. Repeat every few minutes. About 10 drops before oil oozes out of the lower end and about 10 minutes.
I fliiped it over and added a few more just to be sure.
Then I laid it on it's side for a few minutes. Rotating every so often to ensure all those little grooves get oil in them.
I'll know in due time if this prevents rust.

Old cable removed. New cable installed. Next air mix control arm repair. It's 'sticky' and does not move readily. Graphite and lithium grease on the pivoting parts.

Re-attach cables starting with the heater control unit first and heater hose valve last.

Edit:
I carefully pulled the cable through the fire wall until the inside cable end was tugging at the rubber grommet attached to the firewall. At that point I pushed the grommet against the firewall to ensure it didn't pop out when pulling the cable end out of the grommet. Wargames mentioned it's difficult to re-install the grommet. I did not want to know how hard. Nuf said bro.

I used a flashlight in the area to light up the grommet during new cable install. I also placed a dab of oil on the cable end to cause it to slide into the grommet.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead

Last edited by bykfixer; 02-19-2014 at 10:59 PM.
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