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Alright I got a good one for you

 
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:11 PM
Rob Rob is offline
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Alright I got a good one for you

I was driving the other day and all of a sudden, I pulled up to a light and I noticed the car running very rough. (like a misfire). Well it took about another 1/4 mile and I finally threw a code, so I took it by where I used to work and had it checked, misfire cylinder 1. Well I thought what the heck a tune up. So NGK G power plugs, new wire set cap and rotor button. I started it up but it was warming up when warm bam running rough again. Soon after the check engine light came on again(cylinder 1 misfire). So I did my usual troubleshooting pulled the wires and checked spark one by one, all are sparking. Now I assume electrical is out of the way right? Now with our fuel I assume all four injectors are supplied by the same line right? and the number one cylinder happens to be the first injector which has a high probability to get clogged first right? So I thought I would swap injector one with injector 2 and see if I can get the cylinder misfire to migrate, now if it does then gravy, but if not then I guess its a compression test. Or should I skip the injectors and just do the compression test first? I think I will do the compression test first and if cylinder 1 is lower, what am I looking at then? It wasn't smoking at all so I'm sure its not rings. Maybe a valve? I would think I would hear some pinging and a slight knocking if so but I don't hear anything. Ah crap guess it will have to wait until tomorrow.

If it is low compression then stay tuned for a head build. and maybe a re ring job. I might need help on ideas for tuning a OBD II for hot cams, pulleys valves and springs, not to mention the head is going to get shaved as well, so I bit more compression but I'll need help on getting it tuned.

I'll post back tomorrow to let you know what I find out.
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:10 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: Alright I got a good one for you

Okay so this morning, I ran a compression test on the H22a4

Cylinder 1 = 190
Cylinder 2 = 210
Cylinder 3 = 215
Cylinder 4 = 215

Cylinder 1 is where my misfire is but I decided to do an old trick, I dripped about a 1/2 a cap full of oil down the cylinder waited about 10 minutes and tested Cylinder 1 again

Cylinder 1 after oil treatment = 210 (So the rings in that cylinder are showing wear. I guess so at 161K miles.

Now would this eliminate the valves? Now I will turn my attention to the fuel and swap out injector one with injector 2 now if the misfire doesn't go to the 2nd Cylinder then what?

Crank Position Senor (CPS)? But wouldn't this affect all the positions?
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:28 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: Alright I got a good one for you

So I guess no one knows if the crank position sensor would only give you a cylinder 1 misfire or would it affect all cylinders?

Also need to know if there is a shrader valve to release the pressure on the fuel line. Before I disconnect the fuel line.
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:35 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: Alright I got a good one for you

ENG: Raplace Fuel Filter.

Thanks found the fuel line pressure issue now I still need to know about the crank position sensor.

If that thing is bad would it only give you a cylinder misfire in cylinder one or all?
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:20 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: Alright I got a good one for you

Okay now I was looking for a way to unclog an injector, I have seen a couple threads saying blow them out but I don't see anything on it like a DIY, do you blow compressed air thru them, do you spray sea foam thru them backwards? Anyhow, I can only order 2 injectors at a time because the HUB for AutoZone in NC only stocks two at a time. I have a new fuel filter so I'm going to be replacing that first. But I will clear the code and switch injector 2 out with one and see if the misfire moves from cylinder 1 to 2 then I will know its that injector.

Just wondering if there was a way to blow out that injector along with cleaning out the others. I routinely run lucas fuel injectors cleaner and Z max at oil change intervals. I bounch back and fourth between the two additives.

Any help on the situation would be great thanks.
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:43 PM
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Re: Alright I got a good one for you

A sudden loss of compression is usually caused by carbon holding the valves open.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Use the following procedure to remove any “soft” carbon that could be stuck to or built up on the valves and seats.
1. Remove the air cleaner cover. While someone cranks the engine, slowly pour an “upper cylinder solvent”
(Gumout, GM Top Engine Cleaner, or equivalent) into the throttle body. After several seconds of cranking,
compression will improve and the engine should start.
CAUTION: Follow the safety precautions printed on the container.
2. With the engine running, continue to slowly pour the contents of the can (1 pint) into the throttle body.
3. Drive the car for several miles, accelerating the engine to 4000-5000 rpm in first and second gear.
To help prevent this from happening again, make the following recommendations to the owner:
• Accelerate the engine to 4000-5000 rpm at least once each day the car is driven.
• Use a high detergent, unleaded gasoline (a high detergent, low-lead gasoline is OK if the car has no catalytic
converter).

As for cleaning your injectors there are several ways to do it. Just find one you like.
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:47 PM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: Alright I got a good one for you

Got to the fuel filter and noticed that it didn't match the new one I bought, so now I have to know was there a 1997 1/2 year model as my 97 seems to only fit 98 parts.

I'm trying to keep the posts down on this thread if I have to I will address each subject seperately.

Thanks again for any help on the matter.
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:45 PM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: Alright I got a good one for you

Quote:
Originally Posted by HardKnoxBB2 View Post
A sudden loss of compression is usually caused by carbon holding the valves open.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Use the following procedure to remove any “soft” carbon that could be stuck to or built up on the valves and seats.
1. Remove the air cleaner cover. While someone cranks the engine, slowly pour an “upper cylinder solvent”
(Gumout, GM Top Engine Cleaner, or equivalent) into the throttle body. After several seconds of cranking,
compression will improve and the engine should start.
CAUTION: Follow the safety precautions printed on the container.
2. With the engine running, continue to slowly pour the contents of the can (1 pint) into the throttle body.
3. Drive the car for several miles, accelerating the engine to 4000-5000 rpm in first and second gear.
To help prevent this from happening again, make the following recommendations to the owner:
• Accelerate the engine to 4000-5000 rpm at least once each day the car is driven.
• Use a high detergent, unleaded gasoline (a high detergent, low-lead gasoline is OK if the car has no catalytic
converter).

As for cleaning your injectors there are several ways to do it. Just find one you like.
Yeah I was reading somewhere when I did a google search it even told the active ingredient used to clean the soft carbon deposits in the valves. My car will start and run just a huge misfire in cylinder 1. So I can have someone hold the accelerator to 4500 to 5000 rpm then spray that top engine cleaner into the throttle body? Will it work that fast?


I think I'll do something even better, disconnect the exhaust from the CAT, start it up and let it warm up then pull the air cleaner off and spray a mist of water down there, I did this in an old car that had a sticking valve and you could hear the pieces of carbon coming out of the exhaust pipe.

Last edited by Rob; 09-19-2010 at 08:18 PM.
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