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Questions I've searched for.

 
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Old 04-27-2010, 06:08 PM
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Questions I've searched for.

Okay well before I say anything else I just want you to know I have looked through search engines and through the search function on prelude zone but have not had a whole lot of luck soooo:

1: are there some well priced aftermarket rocker arms out there I could only see some ferrea ones but they said they eliminate vtec which I'd rather not. (I have a jdm VTI-R)

2. Does anyone know much about KMS? I'm thinking of getting a kms valve train setup

and some things i'm getting confused with, with this whole obdII crap whether certain things need to be specifically designed to work with obdII such as a 70mm throttle body is there anything that should be different about it to work with obdII or will it just go on no problems etc etc (I've searched for that too D:)

I'll have more questions to add after I search some more thanks for any help
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Old 04-27-2010, 06:32 PM
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Re: Questions I've searched for.

Firstly you have your designations mixed up - there is no such thing as a JDM VTiR. VTiR was a trim level native to the south pacific region (Aust, NZ area). If your car is indeed a JDM model, then it isn't a VTiR, and vice versa.

1) Ferrea isn't the only valvetrain manfuacturer out there. Is it only the rocker arms you want to change, and what is the reason for it?

2) Never heard of them.

3) OBD1/2 refers to the computer that runs the engine, not specifically the engine itself. A throttle body for example doesn't care what computer tells the engine when to spark and when to inject fuel, it just opens and lets air in. What many people say is that when changing major parts you need to conver to OBD1 from OBD2. This is somewhat correct, but not entirely. Keeping OBD2 only allows a piggyback tune (VAFC, AFC Neo etc) which for an intake, header and exhaust is fine and indeed we've seen people run JRSC setups with 300hp on an Emanage with no dramas. However to really take advantage and make the most of any major mods (killer cams for instance) you'll need a full on ECU change, which will require the change to OBD1.
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Old 04-27-2010, 06:38 PM
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Re: Questions I've searched for.

Ahhh ok thanks yeah im from nz, does this effect jdm parts fitting onto mine at all or not??

and the only reason I wanna keep the obdII is for ATTS I may eventually one day go lsd so I'll swap but for now I want to keep it, I'm just doing a n/a build and with the cams I guess that means if I got stage 2 crower cams they won't be used to their full potential with obdII? and also what exactly is stage 2 is this 2 levels of vtec the later being more powerful and the first engages at a lower rpm range? I've searched for this but I haven't had a clear explanation appreciate the help though

Last edited by Seph; 04-27-2010 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 04-27-2010, 06:52 PM
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Re: Questions I've searched for.

Not really - more or less the cars are the same worldwide.

You could quite concievibly run the car well with an OBD2 piggyback with a decent NA build. It has been done before for the exact reason you ask about - ATTS. Keep in mind however that ATTS will only handle a certain amount of power before it doesn't want to play the game anymore.

Stage 2 is just what they call their product. Stage 1 cams are slightly more powerful than stock and slide straight in. Stage 2 require upgraded valve train (springs & retainers, I've not read about replacing rocker arms, but maybe I'm just not paying attention) before it will even function properly, but will make a shiit tonne more power.

It's a time like this when you need to sit down and think about exactly where you want your car to be built to. If you plan on going LSD eventually, how long into the future is that? And if you plan on going nuts eventually, then it's probably a good idea to buy the full ECU and convert to OBD1 now rather than buy a piggyback now then another ECU later. This goes for everything - cams, exhaust etc; size your exhaust for where the build is going not where it is now. It may well be way oversize for a relatively stock engine, but when you finish your build it will be right without you having to do it again.
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:10 PM
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Re: Questions I've searched for.

all cams are measured off of things like lift and duration, the bigger the lift and longer duration just means it will let more fuel and air into your cylinder chambers which means more powerful explosions inside your cylinders which equals more power. this concept gives you different stages.
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:36 AM
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Re: Questions I've searched for.

Okay well I've been thinking about it while I've been at work I reckon I'll just stick it out with my ATTS and stay n/a i'd only want an lsd if I go turbo but I prefer the sound of a fairly fast n/a :D Yeah I have heard it turns off around the 250hp mark and i'm guessing thats not 250whp?

Ahh I see well I guess stage 2 would be a good thing to get then so far some things I'm looking at engine wise are

this valve train set up I'm pretty sure I saw it cheaper elsewhere but this is what it is anyway (if there is a better complete set let me know and hopefully within similar price range i think i saw one around 499)
http://www.honda-performance.com/valve-train.asp

and stage 2 crower cams. (are they good?)


hytec headers or maybe bisimoto if they have ones for the h22a out in time(says their still developing them)

Either type s oem pistons (with head decked) or JE forged ones with 12.0:1 compression as im worried that if I get someone to hone my cylinders with FRM is it? that they might not know about it well enough to do it correctly so maybe im safer just sleeving and yeah.


and maybe the euro r intake manifold? as I wanted the skunk2 one but ppl said it wasn't compatible with my obdII

and acl bearing set and arp head studs?


Can't think of anything else off the top of my head but those are the things I'm looking at currently
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:42 AM
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Re: Questions I've searched for.

sounds like you have a good base plan going so far. skunk2 pro1's (still need v.t. upgrade) make more power than the crowers but are almost twice the price. euro r manifold is one of the best manifolds you can use on an n/a motor, unless you wanna pay for a custom one. i would not deck the block or mill the head unless it needs it, that is material that you cannot replace. plus it will give you very very minimal compression raises. you can basicly do the same thing by taking the middle layer out of the head gasket.
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Old 04-28-2010, 03:46 PM
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Re: Questions I've searched for.

What about stage 3 crowers then I see some going for only a bit more than their stage 2's but would these be under utilized with obdII? sweet I'll look at getting a euro r intake manifold then. oh I'm also looking at purchasing a cold air intake the Secret weapon r intake seen it used in quite a few cars seems to be decent dunno if many people on here know about it though. I'll see if theres anything else I need to add when I'm back from uni today. I guess I should go JE pistons and sleeve then because I was told to deck with type s to get compression to about 11.5 but if its not too recommended the safer but more expensive would be JE but from what I've found everyone seems to like them now.

thanks for the help so far
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