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Old 04-14-2010, 10:07 PM
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atts

What do I do to get rid of atts??? its holding me back from what i'm told i can only run like 9 psi maaxx otherwise the whole tranny will go because of the atts "restraining" this... Is there a way for me to by pass this somehow??? I need some good ideas that can stop me from selling my lude which I love
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:31 PM
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Re: atts

Some research would show your advisor to be a moron. Well, moron is probably a little harsh, they are sort of on the right track, but it has nothing to do with the amount of boost.

ATTS can only handle a relatively small increase in the amount of torque before the system stops working. Also, if you choose to tune the engine with anything more serious than a piggyback (VAFC, AFC Neo etc) then you lose it anyway. Please tell me that you're planning on a stand-alone ECU not a piggyback. While the system will stop working, you won't be stopped from driving the car. In effect you'll just have an extra 80kg to lug around.

The easiest way is to ditch the ATTS trans and drop in a non-ATTS 5-spd. If you're planning on big power I would take this opportunity to fit a serious LSD before fitting it to the car.
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:38 PM
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Re: atts

what brash said is right, but atts is your friend, you can run up to 250hp with atts still functional, and i would highly suggest a jackson supercharger if you would want to keep the atts by chance, and from what ive heard the supercharger tends to work better than most turbo kits, good luck.
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:55 PM
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Re: atts

yes i know i might have worded it wrong and yea definitely not the piggyback a buddy of mine did that to his lude and eventually eff'd up his whole engine... yea I want to run more than 250 to the wheels without a doubt with all the stuff i have in the car now im prolly running around 220ish to the wheels. I looked into the jackson racing, its a nice set up but I wwany moree, I also thought about it and kind wondered how the non atts woud fit? isn't the car made for the atts tranny, like the bolt ons and ****... I love atts by the way... hate to get rid of it but if i want speed i gotta ditch the atts...
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:20 AM
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Re: atts

the tranny will not go for christ sake its got the same internals as the non-atts transmission. Going over 250 WHP makes the clutches in the ATTS unit slip, meaning they cant redirect power. So if you're trying to do 250+whp in a turn, your atts wont add the torque, it will just be a heavy ass axle. most of the time though people arent peaking their power in a turn...

And what makes you think you've over 220 horses to the wheels? have you dyno'd and got that? I'd like to know what modifications you've done to add over 60 whp so far... Did you start the car with the awesome Red JDM key?! I hear it automatically adds 20whp
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Old 04-16-2010, 06:02 AM
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Re: atts

As far as I know whilst the ATTS clutches might slip, the unit shuts itself off before that can happen, then again maybe it shuts down when they start to slip? If it is just a matter of slipping, then I can't see why you couldn't get some new clutch parts made and rebuilt it. Still the issue of not being able to fully tune without swapping to OBD1 though.

ATTS internals:
A look inside ATTS Units(re-posted from honda-tech)
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:04 AM
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Re: atts

yea for sure my research has shown that the clutches won't even get a chance to slip with over 245+ hp to the wheels the tranny will blow becuase of the excessive amount of tourque going to the haflshaft/intermediate. This car definitely has a lot of potential. I just need to get rid of the atts. so i'll look more into the obd1 and ecu's as well... thanks for the help!
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:03 AM
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Re: atts

where is this research? It is wrong, the tranny wont blow. There's 5th gen prelude transmissions with 300+ hp on the engines...there is no halfshaft/intermediate, thats what teh ATTS is, it takes the place of the halfshaft. over 250whp (which was figured out by tests done by a few auto clubs and magazines) the ATTS unit is just not effective. the transmission is still fine and works, the ATTS still turns the driver side wheel, it just doesnt add torque, as if the ATTS was just turned off (like how it turns off if there's an ATTS code thrown)
Damn i've only had this car for 3 months and i know this ****, you need to research better dude
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:52 AM
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Re: atts

haha alrighty buddy I have had the car for 4 months and i'm 17... My research is from other people actually doing it and expierencing these problems. I apreciate the help but don't act condescending. everyone has different views and looks up different things. thanks apocolipse.
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:55 AM
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Re: atts

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Originally Posted by 19prelude98 View Post
haha alrighty buddy I have had the car for 4 months and i'm 17... My research is from other people actually doing it and expierencing these problems. I apreciate the help but don't act condescending. everyone has different views and looks up different things. thanks apocolipse.
no prob man you're young. I'm a bit rash at times but i find that abruptness can help people in the long run :P (i call it the "fuck that guy" method hehe) You'd be surprised how well it works, either you'll prove me you can do something i say you cant, or you prove me wrong (or right) on something i say and end up learning more in the process :)
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:33 PM
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Re: atts

alright sorry i meant 220/230 to the crank not the wheels I have aem cold air, forged pistons and rods dc sport headers greddy half back, aem injectors new valves and soon to come is springs, retainers.
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:31 PM
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Re: atts

AEM Cold Air has been dyno proven to give only about 1-2 horsepower. DC Sports header is basically stock with a coating, again dyno tested to about 1-2 horsepower. You'd be better with a hytec replica and 2.5" custom piping. AEM injectors are only worth it if they're tuned, and why new valves with stock springs & retainers? if you're basing off of 200hp stock at crank, then you've got about 210-215 hp there at MOST. at the wheels you'll barely see a gain and you're likely getting 155-165whp. Go read some of the posts on PO for good bolt-ons to buy. All you've got is forged pistons (which whats so special about forged...get some higher compression pistons) but nothing else? why replace pistons only, if you've got the engine apart to replace the pistons you should have just built the whole thing while you were down there...

You really need to talk to some mechanics, and read up on many other sites. You've got a lot of work to do to get what you want and you're going about it the wrong way
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:37 PM
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Re: atts

haha ASS! Yea well I have big plans for the lude... The reason for my low compression pistons is becasue its gonna be boosted. and high compression doesn't work well with boost, right? and the whole upperend was once replaced like springs retainers everything but it was all sold so I could pay for the sleeves and everything else but they are going to be in really soon. I can hear almost a knock in the valves so I'll prolly just have to replace them too...
thanks for the help though you should get back to me.
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:34 PM
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Re: atts

if you have a knock its probably not the valves...im gona assume u didnt resleeve it wth iron sleeves.right? u said u ave forged low compressed pistons and just ordered sleeves? if thats the case the ur probably hearing piston slap cuz ur stock sleeves are gettin f'd from the forged pistons. they dont work with frm sleeves. if thats the case...im assuming i read that right.
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