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Location of power window relay?

 
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:56 PM
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Location of power window relay?

My driver side window doesn't roll up...but the passenger window rolls up from both the driver door and passenger door.

I pulled the door panel, inspected the wiring and connections, tested the power leads...power goes to the passenger side on the driver door, but not to the driver switch on the same door. All fuses checked out OK as well.

Now the driver window has auto-roll-down, obviously, so it's wiring is a bit more complex than that of the passenger side's wiring. Going by Chilton's...the power for the driver window runs through a relay, and looks like it may have something to do with the ICU and Window Control Unit(never heard of this).

Anyways...I need the location of the power window relay. I've had this same exact problem on many other cars, several of them being 90-93 Integras, and it was always that power window relay. Anyone know where I can find that relay at? Chilton's doesn't say, and Honda claims they don't know.

Gotta get this problem fixed ASAP, as this car is almost done(h22a project) and it's going to replace my Integra as my daily driver.
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:59 PM
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Year of the car? Ill just post a pic once I get the year out of the honda ETM for you
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:01 PM
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Oh sorry about that, haha.

It's a '93 Si.
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:16 PM
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The relay is located under the left kick panel in the under dash fuse box junction



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Old 05-22-2008, 10:16 PM
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I would jump the wires and make sure its not your power window first is you have the door still torn apart. See if that motor is working or not
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:22 PM
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I tested the power lead to the switch, and it's dead...so my switch isn't getting any power to send to the motor. That means wherever the power is coming from isn't sending power properly...99% sure it's the relay.

Thanks for the pics, I'll remove that relay and take it in to the local auto-parts store. I'll be sure to post an update after it's replaced. After several weeks of posting threads on various forums, you're the first to actually help. I really appreciate it! :)
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:25 PM
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No problem. Another thing you could do is just jumper the relay. Look on the back of the relay it will have number. Should be 87 87a 84 and 30. What you want to jump is 87 and 30 with a peice of wire. That takes the relay out of the picture. Then check and see if you have power going to the switch.
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:29 AM
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I pulled that relay, which revealed a "P/W" that I didn't see before...stamped on the fuse panel. Wtf @ that.

Anyways, after pulling the relay...the passenger window stopped working, which perplexes me...from the wiring diagrams, it shows that the passenger window doesn't run any power through the relay. I was under the impression that the relay only handled the driver window?

Could it be possible that the driver half of the relay is bad, and the passenger half isn't? Or is the relay good, and the problem lies elsewhere? I'll re-test all the wires going to and from the main switches on my door panel, and post up which ones have power and which ones don't. This may very well be a switch or motor issue like you said. I'll pay close attention to the driver window power wire running to the switch(should only be hot when key on), and the lead that runs from the switch to the motor(should only be hot when switch activated).

EDIT: In that first diagram picture, middle section on the far right side...you see that "control unit" component? That's the only other thing between the switch and the relay, could that be the culprit? Also...the only control unit around the switch area is door lock control unit, mounted to the door shell behind the panel. It says "Door Lock Control Unit" on it, and my door locks work fine...does that control the driver window as well?

Also...I looked and the p/w relay handles power for both driver and passenger windows, and if it were bad I'd imagine neither window would work. So it's either that control unit in the diagram, the switch, or the motor. I'll check here in a few and post an update.

Last edited by socialistic; 05-23-2008 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:15 AM
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1 wire tested no power, the rest tested power/no power whenever they were supposed to.

That 1 wire was WHT/BLK...power from relay to fuse15 to driver switch. I tested at the fuse15, no power. Pulled the 20A fuse and tested the fuse slots...power was there. The fuse was just a bit corroded, not visually broken. Replaced it...my window now works fine.

All this time it was a fuse that looked fine, but really wasn't. Just goes to show that you should test your fuses before you start diving in to other possible issues.

Thanks again, TheJDMAsian. Without those diagrams, I wouldn't have thought to check the fuse...as I thought it was good just by looking at it in the past.
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