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Question about the throttle screw

 
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Old 04-12-2015, 01:27 AM
Eve Eve is offline
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Question about the throttle screw

So here's my problem, I have a 1994 Prelude Si with a H23A1 engine and an automatic transmission. Last year I took my lude to get the timing belt and water pump serviced. When I got it back I noticed she idled really high, like 1400 RPM's. I got home and noticed the throttle was being kept open, not by accident. I closed the throttle and the car would not start, or she would start and die right after. So I adjusted the throttle to stay open again and she idled at 1400 at all times. When the car reached normal operating temperature, and if the throttle was closed, the RPM's would surge in park until the engine would die out, If I would to quickly put it into gear, reverse or any of the D options, the RPM's would climb to let's say 1200, not as high when the throttle is open but higher than normal, when I reached a stop sign the engine would die out, oh and the mechanic I took it to to do the job told me to replace the throttle body, I took him a used OEM throttle body and a used OEM Denso IACV, since he said those were causing my problems, nope. I noticed he messed with the idle screw, because I did a headgasket last week, due to a leak under load and now my overheating problems have been cured, I put in all new intake gaskets, and I put every vacuum line where it goes, timing was off on the intake cam, so I think that's why it stalled out coming to a stop, but now the throttle can be kept closed, but the idle still climbs up instead of down, for example when I put in in park the idle would still surge sometimes, when it surges I can hear a "pop" coming from my cold air intake, when it calms down my idle in park is around 800-1000 RPM's, when I pop it in gear my CAI makes a loud sucking noise, louder than normal, then idle climbs to 1200. This has been happening before the headgasket job, so I know everything was set up correctly. Also when I'm driving and let off the gas the RPM's would go down to 1k then quickly back up to almost 2k, that's getting annoying, the only way to keep that from happening is to keep the throttle plate open a slight bit. It also seems to be messing with my transmission, it takes it's sweet time to shift to 3rd sometimes, when I'm in second the rpm's would be at 3k and climbing and it's not shifting, so I let off the gas and the car just slows down, the tranny never had problems shifting before all this. Here's what has been done, new throttle body with idle screw tampered with by the mechanic, tried 2 IACV's, aftermarket and OEM, same problem, coolant has been bled, FITV came with the throttle body and is working properly, TPS calibrated property, hasn't been tampered with. Voltage readings within specs. New intake gaskets all around. Before the timing belt job before I took it to that nuthead it idled normal, well the idle would be low, but never idled high like that until I took it to him. Can the throttle screw be the issue? Any ideas? I need this car to idle properly, I'm gonna be replacing this engine soon with a H23A3 from HMO but I want it to idle normally since Imma smog it and I'm scared it's not gonna pass because the idle is high. Thanks.

Last edited by Eve; 04-12-2015 at 01:30 AM.
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:16 AM
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Re: Question about the throttle screw

This reminds me of my Accord when I began having issues with the Distributor..
I had to put something in between the throttle-screw just to keep it up abit, or else
the car would just die out when I tried starting it.. Thus, it had higher RPM's on normal
temperature..

But on the other hand tho; Take your car back to the shop and f*cking demand them
to fix your car. Sounds like they did a horrible job...

bykfixer will agree on that one.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:54 PM
Eve Eve is offline
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Re: Question about the throttle screw

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisMario View Post
This reminds me of my Accord when I began having issues with the Distributor..
I had to put something in between the throttle-screw just to keep it up abit, or else
the car would just die out when I tried starting it.. Thus, it had higher RPM's on normal
temperature..

But on the other hand tho; Take your car back to the shop and f*cking demand them
to fix your car. Sounds like they did a horrible job...

bykfixer will agree on that one.
I'm never taking it to him again. He didn't tension the belt fully the first time and the thing was flapping everywhere, It got worse and worse every time he worked on it. This way almost a year ago. Yesterday I attempted to set base idle, when I disconnected the IACV the surging stopped, remember I have a good working OEM IACV on the car right now, 2 weeks ago I had an aftermarket IACV and it had the same symptoms, but when I disconnected it the engine's rpm would be around 1100 and surge to 1300 really fast and repeat, it made no attempt to stall whatsoever, so I start moving the throttle screw with no change whatsoever. I turned off the car, plugged the IACV, and restarted the engine, I noticed the when the engine's rpm bearly goes below 1k rpm the surging starts, it will stop, then once the rpm's start to drop below 1k it surges and I hear a pop from the intake. I tightened the screw and the engine was about to stall when the idle surged, I turned it back and it didn't want to die anymore. Things to note, I just finished a headgasket on the car last week, it has all new intake gaskets and all the vacuum lines were put back where they came from, what I'm describing was already there before the headgasket job. Before the car wouldn't idle when the throttle plate was closed, now it can. I found the intake cam was off a tooth. Now my exhaust cam is off, it seems it's off by a lot, but I will fix that hopefully this weekend or next and I will recheck for the idle problem, if timing is right after and still having this problem then I will get a used throttle body from the junkyard.
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