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Big Power Loss

 
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Old 10-15-2011, 04:14 PM
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Big Power Loss

Alright I've been working on this for a couple of months now, but I need some input with this. I have a 97 Accord with an H22a in it (Hmotorsonline). Only has CAI, custom exhaust, and headers. The engine runs fine and all, it just has a major power loss. I know this because my brother has an H22a in his 4th gen Prelude and when we raced on two different occasions, he pulled about five cars in three seconds from a 20 and a 40 and he pulled in 5th gear. Against a 240sx S13, (with a big orange bodykit) I was slowly pulling away from him in a third gear roll in my car. I also kept dead even with a 99-00 Civic with a carbon fibre hood that said Hybrid on the back on a second gear roll?? (All the races races were random except one with my brother and the other guys wouldn't race from a stop And yes, I do know street racing is bad) So I'm thinking like 160 hp or something. Now on my car, vtec works randomly. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I had to do the bypass for it. The car already had a chipped p28 in it that engages vtec at 4250. I'm not the person to ask when it comes to cars, but I know enough things to try and fix this. The car had a big crack in the headers when I got it, but I replaced those and the difference wasn't that noticeable. My next guess would be the ecu. I was thinking that the p28 just needed to be tuned or something, but no one out here does that sort of thing. So I'm looking into getting a p13. I also just put a new o2 sensor in it, and that made a difference. Anyways, I need some help with this one, so if anybody has any ideas or any questions I can explain, I'd appreciate it a lot.
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:43 PM
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Re: Big Power Loss

Ok Maybe you guys can help me with this now. Since I put in the new o2 sensor two days ago, I drove my car to work and it was running normal. Then during break I decided to start my car up. So when I did, I noticed that the check engine light kept blinking repeatedly. Two long ones and a short one, 21. So it did that for the rest of the time. When I got home, I reset the ecu. Didn't do anything, just kept on flashing. It flashes when the key is in the ignition and on spot, and just keeps on when you turn the car on. So it's flashing like it would if you jumped the blue connector cable for the codes. Which I have done before and that was one of the codes I got. But what I want to know is why does it keep flashing? 21 is the vtec solenoid, isn't it?
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:38 PM
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Re: Big Power Loss

Yes, code 21 is for the VTEC Solenoid. If the CEL kept blinking repeatedly, that means your cat is overheating. I know on OBD2 cars, thats what a blinking CEL means. Might be different meaning for our OBD1, who knows.

Anyways, I'd check both your valve and ignition timing. One time when I had to replace my Skunk2 exhaust cam, I half ass on putting the t-belt back on. So the timing marks were off yet the car starts up fine. So I thought I timed it dead on. I ran against a stock RSX Type S when I know I can kill them, but I lost to it by almost two cars length so right then I knew my timings off. Before I did my cam swap, I know I'm pretty fast against GSR hatches, LS or GSR Tegs, B-Series swap Civic, etc. Then this year came around and after that run against the Type S, I knew my sh*t got slower. I also ran my buddy's VR6 Jetta Sedan that I would kill by two cars length and this year I ran him and he took me two cars length which I got surprised.

So after all that, I tore all my timing parts off and re-did from scratch. I have the H23 manual tensioner conversion too which put up a good fight due to it being tight. Got it dead on and got a retuned along with my new Euro R IM. Finally pulls like it should which now I'm happy with.

So I say check your timing marks and also check your ignition timing since you're lagging power. TDC the engine at the flywheel and make sure that both of your cam gears lines up with the UP mark and there side marking lines up with the head surface. If all checked out good then it may be your ECU.
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Last edited by Nusdogg; 10-16-2011 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:17 AM
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Re: Big Power Loss

Flashing cel means misfire...I'd check plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

And you shouldn't be getting any codes flashed without the service connector jumped.
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:26 PM
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Re: Big Power Loss

Ah I think I know why the light is blinking now. I'll have that fixed by next week. And I never would have thought of the timing for that. I'm gonna check on that tomorrow and I'll update then. Thanks guys
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:56 PM
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Re: Big Power Loss

So I bought a timing light from advance auto to time it last Friday, and literally less than 5 minutes after using it, it broke. It just stopped working no matter what I did. So my car isnt timed yet. I got a p13 on the way, and I'm gonna get a new distributor, so I figure I'll just wait until it all gets here and have a mechanic time it after I put all the stuff in. Funny thing is, I just lost to a mazda 3 hatch tonight in third and second gear rolls. I did beat it in a fifth gear roll though. Lol But I'm lost on that. It wasnt a Mazdaspeed, so I don't see how I lost by so much. Which was like four cars at the end of both the second and third gear pull. My brothers H22 4th gen Prelude beats me by more than that, but the power for the mazda 3 hatches is only like 150-16x hp and torque? The 240sx had to have had at least that. The hatches weigh less, but still. Can't wait to get her fixed up and running right.

Forgot to mention that as far as I could tell, the mazda was stock. No exhaust and it was very quiet.

Last edited by Castiele; 10-26-2011 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:19 AM
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Re: Big Power Loss

So it's almost 2012 and it still has a power loss. Since last time, I just put in a new (remanufactured) distributor from Advance Auto. I also bought a p28 from phearable.com, definitely more low end power. And the power loss is still there. So I changed the spark plugs, dizzy, ecu, and I just bought a coil pack. Just gotta wait for that to get here. The only other things I haven't tried was wires and having it timed. I'm gonna have it timed hopefully before Friday. If that doesn't work, is there ANYTHING else you guys think it could be? Cause I'm about to just take it to a professional tuner, have him tune the p28, and let him figure it all out.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:21 AM
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Re: Big Power Loss

Get the tuner to do it. That's the best bet since none of us can see or touch your car.
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Old 12-30-2011, 09:05 PM
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Re: Big Power Loss

Looks like I'm gonna have to. Had it timed today and it didn't change a thing.
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Old 01-01-2012, 02:02 AM
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Re: Big Power Loss

Okay Something new happened. Yesterday I helped my brother put a new distributor in his car, the Lude that beat me by about five cars after one gear. But he only started pulling when his vtec kicked in. But anyway, distributor changed, we went out for a drive and his car pulled pretty good. He said it pulled the hardest that he ever felt. So he asked if I wanted to race, and I said yeah. We raced twice. The first time I wanted to see how much of a difference vtec actually makes in a race, so he disconnected the vtec sensor. We went from a 40 roll and I was right there next to him until he pulled half a car. Then we stopped at a gas staion and he plugged the vtec back up. So we did another 40, and he ended up pulling a car on me by the end, midway through fourth gear. He said vtec didn't kick in the second race cause his car is low on oil, which it is. But I was wondering, based on these races and the ones at the beginning of this post (where he didn't pull until vtec kicked in), does vtec really make that much of a difference? I know vtec kicks hard on h22s, but it can't make that much of a difference, can it?

I also put a new coil pack on my car right before we raced, too. And the vtec on my car doesn't work right now.
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