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dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

 
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:45 PM
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Icon9 dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!


I have a 92 Honda Prelude SI.. I recently installed an amp and subs in my car. It worked well for a week, and then stopped. It will no longer power on. Ok, here is what I did right before the issues occured.. I wanted to get the LED lights wired up. I read online that I could tap into the trunk light wires so that the LEDs would turn on when I open the trunk. So I went to my trunk and began looking for where to run the wires.. two wires on under the trunk door were taped with electrical tape so I wanted to why. I unraveled the tape thinking that the wires might have been spliced together by the previous owner. When I got the tape off, the wires were not open ( from what I could see). When I looked at my amp..I noticed a few wires (such as a speaker wire and the blue remote wire looked like they weren't fully secure. So I unscrewed the screws holding them in.. and this is where the hell began!!! I believe the remote wire touched the ground wire that was in the amp and it made a popping noise. I know I should of unplugged the negative battery terminal, but I'm stubborn and I was in a hurry.. (won't make that mistake again ha). Now the amp will not power on. Also, the dome light does not come on when I open the door, but it does work manually. The chimes don't sound when I open the door with my key still in the ignition, and my ignition light doesn't work anymore. I checked all of the fuse under the hood and in the kick panel with a multimeter and they're all good. I also checked the two fuses on my amp. I even bought and replaced the power wire fuse to my amp that's connected to the positive terminal on my battery. I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. So, if anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it.
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:55 AM
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Re: dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

Sounds like you blew a fuse near the kick panel. Does your headlight work?
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Old 09-21-2011, 03:00 AM
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Re: dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

Have u tried to unhook ur system an see if everything works? Cus u probly fried smthn in the amp an makin **** go crazy. Happened in my civic...(Rest In Pieces)
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:52 AM
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Re: dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

What do you mean by "Ignition Light?" Did you test the fuses by pulling them out and checking it from spade to spade with an Ohm Meter? If you just checked the Voltage to ground you may be getting a false reading due to a feedback voltage [caused by the short?]

Your dome light works on it sensing ground. You open the door and the metal tab on the switch touches the metal on the body of the car completing the circuit. Since you say it works when you manuall switch it we already know it is getting the +12V on the supply side. [the center pin if I remember corerctly] This could just be a coincidence that it stopped working when all this other stuff happened. Using a phillips screw driver remove the switch from the door jamb and clean with a wire brush or fine sand paper and re-install.

for the amplifier -
unhook the primary power wire from the amplifier and Test your Amp + to ground. How many volts?
Unhook the Remote + wire, turn on the head unit, and check the REM+ wire to ground. How many volts, if any, are you getting here? You MAY have popped a fuse on the back of the HU. VERY CAREFULLY you can run a small jumper wire from the 12V+ amplifier supply wire to the REM+ connection. Does the amp turn on?
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People say the biggest difference you can change to your system is to add a subwoofer. Which is true, it is the most noticable difference. But running an amplifier to a good set of speakers makes the BEST difference.

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Old 09-21-2011, 12:29 PM
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Re: dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

I pulled each fuse and with a multimeter..I put the positive lead on one side of the fuse and the negative on the other. I'm new to the multimeter, but this is the way I tested my fuses before and found the bad fuse.

My first instinct was check the fuses because the dome light, ignition light (light around the key slot), the chimes, and my amp isn't powering on.

My head unit does turn on, so i know it's not that fuse. The second thing I'm gonna check is the remote wire. I will also check the amp power wire. I'm not sure how to go about doing this though. Like I said, I'm new to the multimeter..so I don't know how to test the wire. I would need in depth explanation ha.

My headlights work as well.

I will also unhook the amp completely and see if anything happens.

Thanks for all the advise.
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Old 09-21-2011, 03:00 PM
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Re: dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

please provide me with the name and model number on the Multi meter.
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People say the biggest difference you can change to your system is to add a subwoofer. Which is true, it is the most noticable difference. But running an amplifier to a good set of speakers makes the BEST difference.

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Old 09-21-2011, 07:33 PM
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Re: dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

it's the dt830 digital multimeter
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:06 PM
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Re: dome light, ignition light, chimes, and amp won't work..lost...HELP!

Ok, for our troubleshooting you will use just two settings.

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT USE THE RESISTANCE ( OHMS) Setting while there is any power applied to the device you are testing.


Probe locations: the black lead should be plugged into the COM (common or ground)
the Red lead is plugged into the V, Ohm, mA for our tests.

DCV: this stands for DC Voltage - or Direct current. Our cars operate on a range from 11.5 to 14.3 volts.
With the car turned off the battery should be able to show you a minimum of 10.5 to 11 volts for a period of one hour. If it does not then you likely have a bad battery. Take it to your local auto parts store and request they load test it for you.
With the car running it should be able to maintain at least 13.9 to 14.3 volts. Any less then I may say your alternator is a potential problem. Anything exceeding the MAXIMUM voltage of 14.3 means your regulator is bad and this is awful for the other electronics in the car. Funny thing about our cars tho is that the Alternator's output is directly monitored and adjusted by the ECU. But I don't think that is the problem so lets move on.

The other setting you will use is the symbol that looks like an upside down U with feet on it. This is called OHMS. it is a measure of resistance.
Plug your probes in and turn it to the 200 or 2000 Ohms setting. With the probes apart, not touching, look at the gauge face. This is called infinity, also known as an open circuit.
Now touch the leads together and the meter should read 0.00. this is called a short, aka no resistance from the + (red) lead to the - (black) lead. When testing your fuses this is exactly what we want.




ACV stands for AC Voltage and this is the one you use for home applications. Usually 110 to 220 Volts. this particualr meter can also be used for 440 V 3phase applications BUT PLEASE DO NOT go looking for something this dangerous to test without the proper training.

Likewise the other settings for current (amperage), diode, and the pin- or hFE settings will not be used at this time either.
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Originally Posted by shatterbox View Post
People say the biggest difference you can change to your system is to add a subwoofer. Which is true, it is the most noticable difference. But running an amplifier to a good set of speakers makes the BEST difference.

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