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Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

 
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:26 AM
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Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Okay, here's my story summed up the easiest and detailed as I can make this,

I bought my '92 h23 Lude Si about 6 months ago and has been great since, love it! haha.. Although, a couple weeks, I installed a DC header(stock downpipe) and a cold air intake, painted the valve cover and cleaned up the engine bay(wiped things off)..

Well, I was out driving and blew a coolant line near the t-stat, lost a lot of coolant as it was night and was doin about 70 a couple miles from home and couldn't see it smoking(now, I'm a collision tech, not a mechanic by any means, so please be open minded that $#it happens), at any rate, I replaced the hose, and added a gallon of (green)50/50 mix coolant(I started the car after hose was on, with cap off while filling, unaware of having a bleeder valve) and drove about 25 miles on the highway when my temp gauge begins to rise(did NOT hit the red) and CEL came on.. I pull over and shut it off(1/4 mile from next town), waited 20 minutes and fired it up(seemed fine), headed into that town to my buddys to check for what the cause was, well, 4 blocks from his place, CEL comes on again(temp at usual 1/2) and when accelerating it begins to bog down and cut out as if it were being choked..

I get to my buddys place and didn't have cash on me, so I filled that empty coolant container with water and set it on the valve cover so it'd warm to temp of engine.. After a 1/2 hour, I added the water, started it up and runs like a top! Drove home(25 miles), then, the next day drove 12 miles and CEL comes on.. Long story short, nothing different, but acts the same way, only this time it was a different coolant line that was leaking.. So, I changed 3 bad lines on back side of head(near t-stat) and the upper and lower hose from radiator along with a new t-stat.. Then, I added 1 and a half gallons of (green)50/50 mix coolant, opened the bleeder valve till solid coolant flowed out..

So.. Seems like everything should be right? Yes. Wrong.....

Well, upper hose gets hot, lower hose cold(not even warm) and CEL comes on
when engine is warmed up and I diagnosed it. Code 43. Researched it, "fuel system supply"? I also read on almost every forum that it'd be my O2 sensor...

Things I have checked, that are good.
fuel pump
fpr
fuel filter
injectors
gas cap
grounds
cat

I have also noticed that my left fan is
not kicking on either..
Heat blows hot(as usual) and right fan
comes on when I turn on the a/c..

I guess my question is this:
What the hell is going on here?!
I have not driven it in a week since this has happened..

Here's the symptoms:
Temp gauge reads 1/2 only
No primary(left) fan
and CEL(code 43)on..

My thoughts, correct me if I'm wrong, but could
there by slim chance be air in the line(or clog)
restricting the lower radiator hose to remain cold somehow
causing the engine to run hotter tripping the O2 sensor?
I've got no input as to the fan not kickin on though..

None of this happened at all and ran like a top
before the first little 1/4" coolant line blew out near the t-stat...

All advise, tips, help, etc will be greatly appreciated!!!
Love the car and wanting it back on the road a sap!

I don't wanna waste money replacing something else
that is not gonna fix my issue.. Thanks to anyone who
can help me...
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:16 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

this does not belong in the yo section. post this in the 4th gen section or ask a mod to move it
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:21 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Guaranteed you have air in the lines that just needs to get bled out. Which is exactly why your t-stat isn't opening, and your left fan isn't coming on.

Moved, BTW
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:36 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

for sure some kind of air lock. it happens and dont drive it till you get it fixed. your thermostat is activated by the engine side of the assembly. hot air isnt the same as hot water. if the return line from the motor is hot but is not hard like its full of pressurized water, thats the issue. could be a faulty thermostat. usually these things iron themselves out but in some cases you must take steps to get the system working properly. there may be a scientific way to do this but,,,,, things to try

undo the return hose and wait a little while and if coolant starts to flow, put it back on.

undo the rad and reservoir cap.

squeeze the input hose and return hose alternately.

if you have absolutely nothing in the return line you can undo it and add coolant backwards into the engine

just some things to try. driving it like this though is gonna kill it. good luck
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:46 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Thanks for all the help, glad to know I'm not alone on the theory of air causing the O2 sensor to trip.. My brother who has a Supra tried arguing with me that it was the sensor and just wouldn't listen to everything that has happened and he immediately jumped to conclusions... lol.. I just couldn't see the logic in that(as to it running excellent beforehand, then hose blowing and it turn out being the O2.. I'll def be out trying to use your advise and will post back whether I solve something or if I'm unsure I'm doing it right)..

@drjless, how do I do this?
-"undo the return hose and wait a little while and if coolant starts to flow, put it back on"

Also, should I start it while trying any of these? Will inspect and check back for a reply on that throughout the day..
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Last edited by 1NA2H8; 03-28-2011 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 06:04 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

do all of this while its running. except filling the return line. do that while its off. the line that goes to the water pump from the rad would be the intake. the return line goes straight from the motor to the rad. ill see if i can post some pics. dont let it idle too long though and as you have been doing, add your coolant nice and warm. depending on where you are, doing this in below freezing temperatures might be a nuisance trying to get the t stat to open. one thing to mention, im not positive on the quantity but the whole system shouldnt hold much more than a gallon. on the front of the motor should be a big thick rad hose. you can undo the spring clamp at the rad and backfill the motor there. have a bud hold it upright, fill it to the brim and start the car if the level drops add more. if it starts coming out nonstop( not only an initial bit) hook it back up. either way though you can leave it off and try the bleeder. one way or another you want coolant coming out to confirm you indeed have circulation. i know ive said watch how long you run it but you need to run it long enough to get the coolant heated enough to open the t stat. a delicate balance. cheers
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:31 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Would it essentially push the air thru if I fill the res. and run it with just the bleeder open and heat on high? Just throwin an idea out, but not wanting to based on personal thought.. Thanks and the help has been more than I've come to conclude.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:13 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

not really. if youve ever held a thermostat in your hands and tried to compress it to open it, it requires a bit of muscle. if you look and while looking think about the science behind this. so to set this up. theres your rad, your intake rad hose comes from the bottom(naturally or else if you were down a cup worth of coolant the hose at the top couldnt get it) then it comes up to the thermostat where it is sealed. you fill up the rad but the air in the hose has no place to go. it cant come back down the hose through the water. so if you are using the bleeder screw, you want to crack it open, car off,(hint, air is easier to suck than water. if you run the car with the bleeder open it will just suck air in through the hole) now fill up the rad as high as you can. close the bleeder and fire it up.

next, you actually want to leave the heater off. hot air instead of liquid wont give you any heat anyway. you want the side of the coolant system with the heater core to get hot and by turning the heater on you are taking that heat away. hope im helping....
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:20 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Okay, so I drained the coolant, flushed the system, steady flow from bleeder..

Lower hose is still cold and still no progress of the left fan kicking on..

Could the new t-stat be junk?
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:40 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

obviously could be. things happen. what would be more likely is that you got the wrong one. usually for each model of car there are three different thermostats. only difference is the temp that they open at. not sure about the lude but on some cars you can omit the thermostat and the housing will still seal properly. the lower hose will generally be cool or cooler than the top. the top comes straight out of the motor while the bottom is the cooled coolant waiting to go back in. just in case theres enough room to put it in backward, the spring side should be on the motor side of the housing. have you undone the top hose to see if the coolant is flowing or not. on a side note, water pumps are cooled by water and dont like to run dry for long. its just a possibility it burnt out but usually they leak when they go.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:08 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

I'm gonna guess the t-stat could be bad then.. If the water pump was bad, I thought the only two places it'd leak would be from the weep hole or main seal on it (which no noticeable leaks anywhere) and that would cause it to not blow hot air, but as I'd mentioned above, heat is hot... Doesn't make a lick of sense which is why I'm so stumped...
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:02 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Well, swapped OE t-stat back in and still no change..

I'm not 100% sure how to check if my water pump is good or not, just based what I last posted by what my buddy who went to college for auto tech told me...

As I stated above, I'm no mechanic, but entertaining advise..

How do I go about removing top hose(rad. or at head)? Running or not?
What would I be looking for while doing so? (like step by step) I'm over this lol...
I live southern Iowa and outside temp is decent(finally lol)

But, this is what I've done today,

-Flushed the system(running when filling, burping upper and lower rad. hose
along the way, then bled system with rad. cap on and res. closed)
-Tested old t-stat and reinstalled.
-Reset ECU
-Started it(ran for about 20minutes and CEL returned)

Upper hose hot, lower cold and no fan.

Temp remains no higher than half.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:34 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

yes you are right about the pump. would only leak from those two spots and if not leaking then its probably fine. undo the top rad hose at the rad while the motor is off. there should be either a gear clamp/muffler clamp or a spring clamp. loosen or undo the clamp and slide it down the hose. after that just slide the hose off the rad.

on a side note, o2 sensors throw their own code and every car ive ever owned, when a code comes from an o2 its permanent and doesnt reset when you turn off the car. if for sure you have hot coolant in the top hose and not just hot air you should be good. but i would double check for sure. another thought, possibly around the thermostat there are sensors all over the place. on the intake and such. have a solid look around. codes that come on after 15 minutes of driving each day could be sensor related.
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:01 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Okay, do I start the car with the hose off at the radiator?
I don't really wanna [F] this up..

Sucks cause I'm laid off right now and my financial situation
blows.. Last resort, figure I could sell my show car to put this in a shop,
but don't really wanna do that and it end up bein somethin simple..

Also, when I reset my ECU and trip it(before starting, in "on" position), the CEL comes on and is solid, not sure if normal, but then when I start it and it idles for a bit, code 43 isn't shy on comin back..
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:13 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

maybe there is another reason but it doesnt make sense unless you had a wild coincidence. but yes, undo the hose, then start it up. obviously dont stand in front of the hose or look down it, maybe grab some safety glasses. within around 5 minutes, coolant should start flowing out of that hose from the motor.
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:20 PM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Kk... I'll give that a shot and see what happens..
Will post back either later tonight or tomorrow sometime
for sure..
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:40 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Hey, sorry I haven't updated progress lately, been busy trying to my wide body show finished up for fresh paint...

At any rate, I flushed the system the best I could(radiator wasn't clogged) and ran fluids thru again.. Solved nothing..
As mentioned above, I even tested both t-stats and they're both opening up fine.
Reinstalled OE t-stat and no change(same with the new..

So, this past Saturday, my bro came down so we could run his new exhaust on his Supra and we started on mine afterwards.. Couldn't figure out why it was doing what it was..
I decided to pull the t-stat out and run it without it..

Good news! Coolant has a great flow, top hose hot, lower not as, but it's not cold
anymore lol and there was a bit of air that came out this time(being there was no trap)..

So, I'm assuming I'm good to put the t-stat back in now, right?
I'm changed the one in my girls Celica, no prob. Same with my Dsm..
I am just worried that once I pull the housing and with what coolant pours out,
cause another air block...

Let me know what your thoughts would be on doing this right... lol..

Really appreciate the help and guidance a long this lol..
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:48 AM
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Re: Tech help need ASAP!!! :frusty:

Oh yeah, how long does it usually take for the right fan to come on? I haven't really paid much attention yet to how long I let it run to notice the time frame that the fan is suppose to kick on.. Both fans do work as soon as the a/c is on, but didn't know if the fan would kick on at idle or if it had to be driven for an "X" amount of time before it'd register and start up..

Also, temp stays at half, nothing more and CEL is GONE lol...
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