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Old 01-19-2011, 03:40 PM
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Icon2 Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

1) How soon should I replace the axle after the boot rips and sprays grease everywhere?

2) How much HP can the stock axles handle?

3) Could fluctuating idle be related to a malfunction in the brake booster?

4) Is it possible to put a F22A1 tranny's (M2L5) 5th gear into an H22A1's tranny (M2F4) and still keep gears 1-4? If so, can LSD still be installed?

5) Anybody know the valve clearance spec's for Skunk2 Pro2 camshafts?


Thanks for helping!

EDIT: Adding more questions @10:55pm EST

6) If your car starts to hesitate on startup and take more cranks to turn over in the morning, could that be an indication the fuel pump is going out?

7) On the Hytech header, for one who's planning on going 3in exhaust, would the collecter on the Hytech (or any aspect of the header for that matter) need to be cut or modified to accomodate the larger exhaust pipe, or would you just weld up a 2.5 to 3in connector pipe from there?

8) What are some sites to buy some performance pistons from? I've only ever heard of JE Pistons and Wiseco, what others are there, and where the hell can you buy them and their associated parts (rings, rods, etc..)?
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:50 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

For idle, I think not. I'm going threw a nightmare with mine right now.

Got more info, is it a constant rough idle? Only when warm? Will it go away here and there? Does it idle high?
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Old 01-19-2011, 04:03 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
1) How soon should I replace the axle after the boot rips and sprays grease everywhere? Right away. your just asking for it to break the longer you wait

2) How much HP can the stock axles handle? not sure exactly, but i'd say it all depends on how you drive, and tires as well.. ie slicks or street tires.

3) Could fluctuating idle be related to a malfunction in the brake booster? ... malfuntioning how? kinda left that really vague. also theres a sticky'd thread about idle problems. check there before you make a new thread about fixing your idle. i beleive its in the engine section or the 5th gen area.

4) Is it possible to put a F22A1 tranny's (M2L5) 5th gear into an H22A1's tranny (M2F4) and still keep gears 1-4? If so, can LSD still be installed? yes you can.

5) Anybody know the valve clearance spec's for Skunk2 Pro2 camshafts? try skunk2's website.. err if your talking about like to adjust your valves just go by stock specs.. you already have the pro2's?


I'll stop here for now. Thanks for helping!
hope that helps
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:47 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

Thanks for responding. I'll clarify what's been asked about;

2) How much HP can the stock axles handle?
--Will be for street purposes but I plan to clear 250whp by the time I'm done, and have no clue if the axles need to be upgraded. Will see occasional straight track days throughout the summer.


3) Could fluctuating idle be related to a malfunction in the brake booster?
--I've read the idle thread lots, searched online, found one similar problem thread on PO with no answers; I can feel the brake pedal move with the idle when it starts fluctuating. It's not constant, only when the engine is warm sometimes, and only when I'm stopped. I can coast for a mile in neutral and not have it fluctuate, but the instant the wheels stop rolling is when it will start. If I'm sitting at idle and it's not fluctuating, I can pump the brakes and it will start for a moment, stop, and start again every time I pump the brakes some. Strictly fluctuates from 1000-1400 RPM. Yes I've cleaned the FITV and cleaned/adjusted IAC, sprayed soapy water on vacuum lines.

When I turn the car off I can hear air escaping from around the brake master cylinder, but cannot feel or see any leaks. If I hold the brake pedal when I turn the car off, the air escaping noise stops.


5) Anybody know the valve clearance spec's for Skunk2 Pro2 camshafts?
--I've had them awhile, but not installed. The only thing I can find on the Skunk2 website is info about sales, maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places.
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:02 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

Assuming H-Series on this:
http://www.skunk2.com/engine-2.php?code=CSPH

Little fancy button next to the Pro2 camshafts brings up this:
http://www.skunk2.com/installation/305-05-5205.pdf
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:38 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

Ah okay beautiful. It's trying to open it in a .pdf format so that's why I'm not seeing it. Thanks! And yeah it's H22..I often forget there's even another engine out there ;)
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:54 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

Added more questions to the list
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Old 01-20-2011, 01:06 AM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
2) How much HP can the stock axles handle?
--Will be for street purposes but I plan to clear 250whp by the time I'm done, and have no clue if the axles need to be upgraded. Will see occasional straight track days throughout the summer.
If you are pushing 250whp+ you really should get better axles. I would recommend Gator Racing Axles Drag Axles Street Axles from the good things I've read about them.
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Old 01-20-2011, 03:15 AM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
......
EDIT: Adding more questions @10:55pm EST

6) If your car starts to hesitate on startup and take more cranks to turn over in the morning, could that be an indication the fuel pump is going out?
not sure on that one.. is it fine when it "warm" out? like say above 45degrees out?

7) On the Hytech header, for one who's planning on going 3in exhaust, would the collecter on the Hytech (or any aspect of the header for that matter) need to be cut or modified to accomodate the larger exhaust pipe, or would you just weld up a 2.5 to 3in connector pipe from there?
you'd cut off all the pipe after the collector and then get a 2.5(or whatever size it may be) to 3inch piece, weld that in, and then put a 3inch flange on that. you'd try and cut back as close to where the primarys merge, also being that it is so close to the collector, you'll want to make sure who ever welds it, back purges the pipe when he's welding it. yes it'll cost a little bit extra to back purge it, but you'll want it, specially if your looking for decent dyno numbers. why fuck it up just cuz you wanna go cheap on welds, ya know.

8) What are some sites to buy some performance pistons from? I've only ever heard of JE Pistons and Wiseco, what others are there, and where the hell can you buy them and their associated parts (rings, rods, etc..)?
Some site i use, never had a problem with any of them. PasswordJDM, Weaksauce, Inlinefour, Xenocron, thmotorsports

as far as pistons, your named off JE and Wiseco, theres also CP, and Mahle. ummm... ya i dunno theres lots, but those would be the 4 big ones. i know mahle makes a forged piston set that works with our stock frm sleeves.. now would i trust it if i was building for big numbers? probably not, but ya for a decent upgrade on a daily driven bolt on car. ya why not. otherwise im not to sure on the diferences between the other 3. if i remember right i think it was cp thats making a non symmetrical piston now. basically it has more skirt on one side, to allow for more oil and a bigger surface area when the crank is pushing back on the piston, ie less wear

theres
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Old 01-20-2011, 11:06 AM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

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Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
1) How soon should I replace the axle after the boot rips and sprays grease everywhere?
Actually quite a bit. I think the litmus test is when it starts clicking when you turn. However, if you delay too much, then the axle breaks and the car will not move because of differential.

Quote:
6) If your car starts to hesitate on startup and take more cranks to turn over in the morning, could that be an indication the fuel pump is going out?
Isn't the test for it, checking the fuel pressure and maybe throwing lighter fluid in there and see if the number of cranks decreases? It could also be due to the ignition system (sparks, plugs, dissy etc)

Last edited by mr0x; 01-20-2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:01 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

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Actually quite a bit. I think the litmus test is when it starts clicking when you turn. However, if you delay too much, then the axle breaks and the car will not move because of differential.

Wow...stupid. Once the boot rips, it is done for. CV joints will not take any kind of abuse from debris or grit, which is what the boot protects it from. If you were quick, you could maybe just replace the boot. But nowadays the cost of a CV axle is cheap enough to just replace it.

Long story short, if the boot rips, it needs to be replaced now. However, you can technically still drive on it, but the countdown began once the boot ripped. Once it gets some grit in there and mixes with the grease, it'll start to score the bearings and races, so its just a matter of time.


Isn't the test for it, checking the fuel pressure and maybe throwing lighter fluid in there and see if the number of cranks decreases? It could also be due to the ignition system (sparks, plugs, dissy etc)
Slow cranking in cold weather is the battery, 9/10 times. It gets old, starts getting sulfated and losing its capacity, and when it gets cold you notice it more because it cannot provide enough CCA. Which results in slow cranking. I'd check that out first.


As far as the brake booster, it is possible. There is a vacuum diaphram in the brake power booster, its possible yours failed. If you have a vacuum gauge you can check to see if there is a leak.
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:54 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

You guys are great, thanks!

With the starting problem, it's not a slow crank at all, just cranks and cranks and wont turn over right away if I hold the key to start. I've noticed that if I turn the key on and let it sit for a second til everything powers on before I crank it, I don't have that problem.

With the idle issue, I have no vacuum gauge so I think I'll just have to replace it and hope that does it. Hopefully that'll fix it and we can add some more info to the infamous idle thread.

As for the rest, thanks for the info on the header, axles and pistons. Looks like I can get a stock replacement axle for about $50 which I guess isn't too bad a price to get me to the point where I'll get some of those Gator brand parts that were mentioned. I really appreciate all the help. I'll go from here and pending a resolution to any aforementioned problems, I'll update. Thanks again!
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:13 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

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Wow...stupid. Once the boot rips, it is done for. CV joints will not take any kind of abuse from debris or grit, which is what the boot protects it from. If you were quick, you could maybe just replace the boot. But nowadays the cost of a CV axle is cheap enough to just replace it.

Long story short, if the boot rips, it needs to be replaced now. However, you can technically still drive on it, but the countdown began once the boot ripped. Once it gets some grit in there and mixes with the grease, it'll start to score the bearings and races, so its just a matter of time.
Once the boot rips, you still have a few good weeks or more before the CV starts clicking. You definitely should replace it ASAP but unless it's clicking, it's not an emergency where you stop driving the car and take it to the mechanic right away.

You can drive the car while you wait for the reman CV to come in the main / special order to come in, and wait for the weekend to get the job done.
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:21 PM
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Re: Grab-bag of questions- Answer what you can!

Do new axles come with new bearings and stuff or are those possibly additional things that would need replacing?
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