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STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

 
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:54 PM
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STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

To start off, I got the TPS in the mail today and it happened to be a BLOX brand TPS, what I bought was no-name, kinda surprised.

I'm really surprised that it doesn't work right. The old TPS was set to .84 ohm's. And when completely off the tb, the ohms sit at .40, the sensors lowest point. Well the BLOX TPS's lowest point is 1.10. Wtf? It's sitting at 1.11 on the car simply because it can't go any lower.

Why is it so out of wack? Is this just what BLOX does, or is it defective?

It seemed fine first, the car started without a problem, low idle. I went to take it out to test it and the misfires started again, not only that but when let to the RPM's drop to idle it would just shut off. Not even choke or hesitate, just drop to 0. To start it you have to pump the gas, and keep the rpm's from hitting 0. It only does it when it wants do, by the time I got home it wasn't shutting off.

It's either air or fuel, and has to be electronic based since its fickle and not acting up 100% of the time.

I was told to check to distributer cap, how can I check to see if it's causing the problem? Anything else ring a bell of why I'm misfiring and stalling?
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:36 PM
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Re: STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

I'm going threw the ICM at the moment, gonna bring it to get checked.

I'm still wondering about the TPS though, if anyone knows. Is over 100 bad? They give a range of .5 - .9, does the little extra hurt or kill performance?

My old man said the car was running rich, black smoke. If the TPS is set to allow more air then usual, it might even itself out. If thats what the scaling ohms mean, not sure.
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Old 01-18-2011, 06:31 PM
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Re: STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

ICM checks out, ran 7 tests at autozone.

Only thing left would be the ignition coil. Input?
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:49 PM
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Re: STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

Update: I went away from ohms and went to volts to adjust the TPS. It was at .24v, now at .50v. I did a quick run with no misfires, but the rough idle is still there, lightly. I'm not postive the misfires are gone, I'll know for sure tomorrow when going to school.

Would the wacked out ohms cause the rough idle? If the misfires are infact fix?
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Old 01-20-2011, 10:24 AM
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Re: STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

Does anyone have a list, or know most of the CEL related rough idle causes? I'm not throwing a CEL and I just tried to pull one incase and all I got was a solid light with no blinking.

I'm trying to work down a list, would be good to know what I can avoid looking at entirely though.
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Old 01-20-2011, 10:59 AM
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Re: STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

The cause of the problem that you're having could be non-sensor related. A lot of people have these problems (including me) and so, when they solve it they never come back and post what the problem was. So, we have lots of threads reporting problems but never solutions, LOL.

But, check my reply to this thread and maybe it will be helpful.
jerking,bucking, and breaking my neck >_<
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:43 PM
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Re: STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

I always report back with the solution haha, thats how people learn.

Anywhere, here is a FULL recap on what has happened.

---------
The initial problem was a fickle rough idle, and within a couple days started the misfires and shutting off. Because of all 3 problems happening at the same time, naturally we thought it was one cause.

TPS was the first thing to go with, even though there was no CEL, if the misfires AND idle were related, the TPS shorting out or sending the wrong volts seemed pretty plausible.

I ordered a no-name TPS off ebay, and it happened to be a BLOX brand TPS, which they give you when you buy their throttle bodies. It was crap. The ohms when completely off the TB sat at .400 (oem sensor), and it was set to .85 on the TB. The BLOX TPS was at 1.100 while off the TB (meaning both at the lowest setting). That is 700 ohms over what factory was. To make it worse, once it was on the TB at the lowest setting (trying to get as close to .85 as we could) the volts read .24v! It ran for 30sec's like that until the misfires became worse and it would barely run.

We decided to ignore the ohms and set the volts to .5. I'd imagine the ohms would be at 1400+ once adjusted, but we never checked. AT THE SAME TIME, we also played around with the distributor cap, and had the ICM checked, which turned out to be fine. But I also scrapped off build up on the cap rotor contact points, which seemed significant. The car ran for 2 days perfectly, expect for the slight rough idle here and there, so that told us that the misfires and idle weren't related. Bleeding the coolant system seemed to have fixed the idle, go figure.

I was at school today, and once I hit the parking lot the car ran like crap. Undrivable. Misfires whenever you touched the gas, and wanted to die if you let it hit low rpms. I reset the ECU and no changed. In an effort to get home I took off the BLOX TPS and installed the old TPS again. Since then, I put about 70 miles on the car and no mishaps, the idle happened once or twice but probably from air in the system since I took off the TB again.

This tells us that 1) the idle and misfires are seperate problems, and 2) it was never the TPS.

I want to bet cleaning the contact points on the cap fixed the first set of misfires and shutting off. When the BLOX TPS caused the misfires it threw a CEL as soon as it did.

I will never buy BLOX again, unless it's their lug nuts, bout it. =/

And thats the story thus far, I'll update this thread if more happens.

Last edited by Terror; 01-20-2011 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:01 PM
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Re: STILL NOT WORKING! Whats left?

change your distributor cap and rotor see if that helps. the misfires can be cause from moisture in the cap.
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