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a small modification ive made, will test next few days

 
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Old 10-15-2010, 06:32 AM
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a small modification ive made, will test next few days

so i thought i'd share my little at home experiment(s) with everyone.

EDIT:i need your guys help, im not sure my system functioned properly in the first place. when my engine is running this valve remains in the same position that its in when the vehicle is off. i unplugged the hose and theres no suction. this valve may be controlled by another solenoid or something. can someone or several of you guys go start your motor and remove this hose to see if it has suction at idle? or just look at the position of the valve on the side of the intake manifold then start the motor and see if it has changed. thank you

so this random idea just popped into my head after reading this Honda Prelude Flapper Valve Mod i think its a dumb idea to just remove the line so the valves are open all the time but i am interested to see how this affects power at different rpm ranges...

earlier today while removing all the dead weight under the hood i noticed that the box that controls the butterfly valve in the stock intake silencer (inside the bumper below the intake) contains an electronically controlled vacuum valve. this valve appears to be used to control how much suction reaches the diaphragm that opens and closes that silencer valve.

im going to install this electronic valve in-line between the intake manifold and the flapper valve diaphragm and control it with a switch in the cab.

this will allow me the ability to cut off the suction to the flappers with the flick of a switch which will open them all the way whenever i want. i will be able to flick this switch in all sorts of driving conditions and see how it affects power output.

i was able to do all of this with items i had laying around the garage and the parts i removed from the OEM intake control system (hoses, hose butt fitting, and solenoid) other parts included the wires, butt connectors, inline fuse holder, and a switch.

so i used the intake control solenoid from behind the battery. its the round thing on the corner of the black box. if you remove the box you can see that the solenoid is held by one screw on the bottom. i brought it over to the drivers side and saw that the bolt for the bracket that holds the throttle cable was a perfect spot to mount the solenoid. i used a drill to drill out the mounting hole in the solenoid to make it a bit bigger so the bolt would fit though it then mounted it. i ran a vac hose from the lower vac port on the side of the manifold to the the bottom (brown) input of the solenoid. then ran the output of the solenoid (black) to the input on the diaphragm that opens and closes the flappers. at this point the system would work fine the way it is but i decided that i wanted the valves to still automatically open when they were designed to so i removed the pressure release thing from the top of the solenoid, the round part. it pulls straight up and off to reveal a metal tube you can fit a hose over. then i extended the hose that was originally plugged into the diaphragm using a butt fitting and another piece of hose then connected it to the top of the solenoid (metal). when the solenoid is deactivated the top hose (metal) and the output hose (black) are connected so basically when the switch is off its connected like it is from the factory allowing the whole system to function normally. when the solenoid is activated it connects the brown input and the black so basically it connects the diaphragm directly to the intake manifold. heres some pictures:

the black box with the solenoid removed (it was in the curved corner) this box used to be located atop the motor mount just behind the battery, you can see thats where i have my HID ballast mounted now.


here you can see the solenoid. note the metal, black, and brown (bottom) inputs i was talking about


this image shows the way the hoses are routed


here it is all connected and mounted up. wiring hadnt been done yet


final product, wires are split loomed and taped


heres the switch, im not mounting it because i dont know if im going to keep all this yet.



next, i ran the white wire to a switch inside the cabin. i ran the second terminal of the switch to a fused ignition 12v source. now the whole system is functional. i have yet to really test it on the street. i have a vac gauge mounted in my tweeter panel, over the next few days ill monitor everything and see how this affects performance.

heres a video of me switching the switch off and on showing my system is working as anticipated M4V01560.mp4 video by AEagleNFitch - Photobucket



my project for tomorrow will be an attempt to eliminate the check engine light after removing the EGR valve. after a bit of research it seems no one has come up with a solution to this for the obd1 motors. after reviewing some wiring diagrams and dissecting my egr valve i think i've come up with an answer. i used my multimeter to check the resistance values produced by the egr valve in open and closed positions. since the CEL does not illuminate until after a bit of driving im assuming it does not matter if theres a rest resistance. the resistance of the valve when fully open reads 419kohms. now, the way the egr valve opens is theres another solenoid controlled by the ecu. when the ecu opens the solenoid it sends vac to the diaphragm that opens the egr valve then the ecu looks for 419kohms. if it does not see the 419kohms then it turns on the light because it can see weather or not the valve is opening.

my plan is to purchase a 420kohm resistor and simply jumper pins a11 and d12 at the ecu with this resistor. a11 is the wire that turns on the solenoid and d12 is the wire that checks the resistance of the egr valve. so basically when the ecu sends out the signal to open the egr it will go through the resistor and the checker wire will see ~419kohms. in theory this should eliminate the CEL. we will know for sure tomorrow
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Last edited by Nfrank89; 10-15-2010 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:30 PM
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Re: a small modification ive made, will test next few days

You got the same ghetto strut bar I have! lol
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:48 PM
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Re: a small modification ive made, will test next few days

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Originally Posted by dbd6604 View Post
You got the same ghetto strut bar I have! lol
yeah lol came with the car

anyways after all this work i realized the valve wasnt working properly in the first place. my ecu isnt sending the signal to the solenoid so it was always open all the time already. back to the drawing board
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:09 AM
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Re: a small modification ive made, will test next few days

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbd6604 View Post
You got the same ghetto strut bar I have! lol
hahaha
i have that one to XD
and mine also came with the car
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:11 AM
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Re: a small modification ive made, will test next few days

I got mine with my BB1 when I bought it. Anyone know what brand it is? lol
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:18 AM
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Re: a small modification ive made, will test next few days

Right now my iabs are open all the time because of my chipped p28, and I don't/cant tell the difference in low end. The motor also sound so much better with them open lol. I may just take them out in the future, but your idea is pretty neat, to stay on the topic lol.
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As much as I'd love to see this done, I offer you the same comment I offer everybody else: There's no point in being the first to do something if you're second across the finish line.
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:58 AM
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Re: a small modification ive made, will test next few days

i did the d-stack so i just dont have iab's
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