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Change Oil Pump

 
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Old 02-25-2015, 01:33 PM
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Change Oil Pump

Well, my oil light has started blinking when I come out of gear and let the engine fall to idle at a stop. Turn the engine off and restart or flip the key while coasting and it goes off and stays off for a while. It only does it every now and then and seems to do it less when the engine has been up to temp for a while. I'm thinking the oil pump is on its way out. My question is, how difficult is it to change?
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Old 02-25-2015, 02:28 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

replacing the oil pump isn't much more work than changing the timing belt. You just need to dig a little bit more to get to it. But keep in mind that most problems with oil pressure are not caused by the oil pump. In fact, it's rare for an oil pump to go bad. The pump supplies oil flow, but it doesn't make pressure. The pressure is caused by the resistance to oil flowing through bearing surfaces. If your oil pressure is dropping it's most likely caused by bearing wear (main bearings and rod bearings). How many miles are on your engine?
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:25 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

Pressure sensor perhaps?
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...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
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Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
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I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

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Old 02-25-2015, 03:54 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

Take off timing belt to gain access.Remove cross brace under car. Lower exhaust to drop oil pan. Not too bad.It was tricky for me just to find an oil pump and it wasn't cheap.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:55 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

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Originally Posted by bykfixer View Post
Pressure sensor perhaps?
I'm glad you brought that up Mike. I vaguely remember someone on the other forum having a similar issue. The connector on the oil sending unit tends to get coated with gunk, and it's possible to develop a bad connection. The first thing to do would be to clean off the connector and sending unit to make sure there you have a good connection.
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:50 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

Thanks for the info guys. I'll check the connection first. My car just turned 270,000 miles. I'm currently looking for a replacement engine locally to build Before this one has a problem. I'm wanting to build it to about 200hp.
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Old 02-25-2015, 09:08 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

270k? Check the oil pressure too.
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Originally Posted by ogsmakdade View Post
welcome to site Carl
...is a golden car fax kinda like a golden ticket? Sure hope willy wonka didn't put any snozberries in your motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elspectro29 View Post
Only seen the first one, 15 years ago in theaters. Plan on keeping it that way. Get off my lawn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindso View Post
I remember my first thread, asking what a noise was when I got going 110mph.
Pretty much got flamed for driving like a jackass and was told to slow down. And I'll be damned, slowing down fixed it.

God's Not Dead
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Old 02-26-2015, 12:22 AM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

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Originally Posted by JirehCustoms View Post
Thanks for the info guys. I'll check the connection first. My car just turned 270,000 miles. I'm currently looking for a replacement engine locally to build Before this one has a problem. I'm wanting to build it to about 200hp.
You are not going to get 200hp off this motor in NA, turbo yes.
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Old 02-26-2015, 04:02 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

I know I'll need a turbo. Things is, I'm a classic muscle car guy. I know little about imports. I just love these Gen 3 cars and have since I was a kid. What is a good turbo setup for this car?
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:20 PM
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Re: Change Oil Pump

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Originally Posted by JirehCustoms View Post
I know I'll need a turbo. Things is, I'm a classic muscle car guy. I know little about imports. I just love these Gen 3 cars and have since I was a kid. What is a good turbo setup for this car?
Well turbo wise you should use a T3/T4 turbo:
Compressor .50 A/R
Compressor .63 TRIM

On a custom made log manifold will net you around 250-300whp.

That of course is with all necessary upgrades to the rest of the motor.

Since pistons and rings are really rare, to cut your costs you can use B16/18 cast pistons off of ebay to replace the stocks.

They have the same bore as the B20a5, but you will need to have the wrist pins modifed on the stock rods or if you want a little bit more strength, you can use H23/F22 stock rods.
The H23/F22 rods drop in and need no modifying to bolt to the crank, but still need the wrist pin modification for the B16/18 pistons.

Tuning is key, and upgrading old components is necessary. Turbo charging an old motor is not smart in any relm.

On average you will be able to build the motor to handle boost for around: $3000+


Now, just so you are aware, swapping out the old B20 for an H22 is going to cost around the same these days.
And that motor is also 200hp in NA form, so something for you to consider.

If you go to the front page of the 3rd gen forum and look at the stickies you will see that I have done this already and made great strides to make an H22 swap as easy as possible for as close to reasonable as possible.

So just somethings for you to consider.
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