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Clackity-clackity-clackity

 
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:51 PM
Pauludeiful
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Clackity-clackity-clackity

Well... I did it.

The other night this 98 grand prix "thought" it would have no trouble out running my stock 89 2.0si. Wrong (oh I'm sorry, are you governed 110mph ) Of coarse, now I realize that 130mph in a completely stock configuration, might have been a bad idea to race with. In fact, it was probably more like natural selection for all the unfit parts on my car.

I noticed an oil spot on the driveway the next morning... About 2 days later my right-front break rotor started to squeak. Then finally, I started hearing that CV joint clackity noise.

I took off the right front tire and found the entire wheel well was covered in this black goo. Which I suspect at one time was kept inside the CV boot. The CV boot... shredded.

Is the whole axle toast? Can I have the CV boot replaced? Do I have to replace my front brakes now? I've been driving my Jeep ever since I started hearing the noise. How much damage did I do to my prelude?

thanks -Paul
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:24 PM
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Just replace the axle, whichever has the torn boot L/R.

That noise and the brake noise will cease.
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Old 04-16-2007, 01:59 PM
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get new axles and your good to go.
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Old 04-16-2007, 11:06 PM
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Thanks prelude13, sappysport215. I'll just replace the one. btw, Should I try to clean the breaks at all or just leave it alone? I'm thinking that grease might pit my pads, Or cut up the rotor up. If I get a chance I'll post picks.
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Old 04-16-2007, 11:26 PM
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I had that problem with one of my Kias. The boot shredded and the driver's side CV joint was clanking. I'm not sure if you do the work yourself or not but I had the CV Joint & Boot replaced for like 110$ including parts and labor.
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:02 AM
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yeah i just had the same thing hppen. i was switching my wheels and saw a nice white grease under my car then i saw the torn cv boot. (must have happened earlier that day cuz ther was very little debris in the grease and no noise) the next day the clunking started. so i sidelined the car till i could get it fixed. had the whole axel replaced and now it's all good. it must have been sloppy for a while because the car feels alot tighter now. maybe thats just becase i didn't have time ti get used to the summer tires again yet.
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:48 PM
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Thanks Preludeshalyn, DRBagabundo. There's a 3rd gen up at Pick n pull auto-wreckers I'll just take the axle out of that one. Save a little money. I'm not going to worry about the brakes, cause it wasn't an issue on your cars. Thanks again guys. -Paul
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Old 05-20-2007, 02:36 AM
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resurect dead thread

Update:

I Flushed the power steering fluid, and the brake fluid. Then Paid a mechanic to replace the timing belt\water pump and replace the front pass axle. (no more clackity noise yeah). Now all thats left is the trans fluid and this really annoying squealing from the front brakes. The depth on the pads look fine and the rotors aren't warped. Whats making that noise!!??

I was told by the mechanic that I have whats known as impacted rotors. And there in bad shape and need to be replaced. Sounds a lot like impacted molars... and could run up to around 5 hours of labor for each rotor to replace. Now I'm not a complete idiot. I'm not going there again. But I wanted to know if there is anything to that whole "impacted rotors" term or was he just making that up.

I was also told by the mechanic that everything on the car is original. (excepting the parts I just mentioned) IE: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ect.. I'm going with NGK wires and Basic NGK (non-platinum, non-iridium) plugs. I'm looking far recommendations as for as distributor caps and rotors. Preludeg3.xxx recommends something of higher quality then autolite or boseh. But NGK doesn't sell caps and rotors so...

Comments / recommendations welcome. thanks for reading
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Old 05-20-2007, 01:41 PM
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Squeeling noise could be many things, but if you are going to replace your rotors, the brake calipers/slides are coming off anyway, you can detect the problem like that.

good call on the NGK wires and plugs, as for cap and ign. rotor, just get OEM Hitachi or Japanese made.
How about a blaster coil to smooth out your idle?



You may also want to think about a cheap ebay grounding kit. For $10.shipped, those 4 guage groundwire upgrade is a steal.
http://mustardcat.brinkster.net/p3g/...undUpgrade.htm



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