Quote:
Originally Posted by partyman09
The Mahle FRM pistons are no good. They last from 2k-10kmiles. Now i dont know about anyone else but i put that on in about 3 months. They also work like a quater of the time. Ive heard of a very very few ppl hitting over 10k with them. But hell if you have the money to spend 600 every 3 months go ahead...? If i was going to sleeve the block i would use dry darton blocks. They cost $200 plus $500 to install if that. The dry sleeves are good for 500hp.I dont think you would be needing wet sleeves unless you are hitting 500+ hp.
Now to the heads... The h22a have some of the best flowing heads. They dont need to be PNP cams, blah blah. If you are going to do anything get a vavle job and maybe upgrade the seats and springs but only if you plan on hitting 300+hp. If you are going to turbo the engine there is no need to shave the heads.
Now lower end... The crank is good for 900+ hp and dosnt need to be replaced. If you have the money you can bring it to the machine shop and have them shave about 5lbs off with out losing any strengh... The rods and pistons are good for about 350hp. Take a peek at ebay and you can find good rod and piston combo deals. Eagle,BC,JE,ETC. If you are going to turbo it go for 8:5:1 or 9:1 comppresion.
As for turbos.. If you are going stock you can boost up to 8psi with a T3 and 5psi with a GT35R.
Ik im missing some things in here but these are the basics. if you have any qestions just pm me im happy to help..
My info for you dude is to search and put alot more info on here such as your goals. I woulda chewed you one for this but f*** its one in the mourning and im freaking BORED.
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where are you pulling this information from? your ass?
OP:
leave the head alone and build the block. you dont need to run super low compression just because you are boosting. run around 10:1 and get it tuned properly