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Old 11-02-2006, 03:55 PM
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rheakpl rheakpl is offline
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got this from ht (kotetu):

Hey guys! I finished my brake install in about 3 hours with a friend. Pretty good time, it was the first time I've done the full install. We did one side at a time, if you are competent, you may do one and have your friend do the other.

Here's a DIY, I suggest you verify EVERYTHING in my list BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANYTHING!!! I take no responsibility for you hurting or killing yourself or anyone else. As always, if you do this mod, you are responsible for the results. Please be safe!

Parts installed:
1995 Legend GS Sedan front calipers (including pad spring)
1995 Legend GS Sedan front caliper brackets (including pad retainers)
1995 Legend GS Sedan Brembo Blank rotors (28mm)
Goodridge Stainless steel braided front brake lines

Tools used:
10mm wrench
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
1/4 and 3/4 ratchet
rubber mallet
impact driver
2 pairs of plyers (for those hard to access places)
various extenders and adapters
6000 lbs jack
jack stands
heavy duty ZIP ties
clippers (for zip ties)
a couple of flat head screwdrivers
a few small blocks of wood (for clamping to the calipers during bleeding)
Plastic jar or pitcher (to catch brake fluid)
bag of rags (to keep it clean)

Install time:
3 hours, with friend.


Install procedure:
Preparations!
01) obtain all parts first!

02) make sure you have at least 2-3 hours of free time and a friend to help!

03) get a copy or printout of the appropriate pages of the Helms manual

04) gather all of the tools

05) Print out this DIY!!! =D

Break down!
06) loosen all 10 lugs on the front wheels

07) make sure parking break is up, car can be in or out of gear

08) jack up car (from the front) so the wheels are about 2-3 inches off of the ground

09) place jack stands behind front wheels, to support the jack and protect your life

10) double check all jacks and supports to make sure that everything is safe.

11) remove 10 lugs from front wheels, remove wheels (don't scratch your wheels!)
You will now see the rotor, single piston caliper, bracket, and behind these the dust shield, rubber brake line, and suspension.

12) loosen and remove caliper bolts (2 behind the rotor)

13) zip tie caliper up to one of the supports for the suspension (not the spring) - Make sure you get it out of the way of the rest of your work, you will get back to this later.

14) remove, and place in a safe location, your brake pads.

15) loosen and remove the bracket bolts (2 more behind the rotor)

16) remove the caliper bracket and put it in a box

17) Using the impact driver, carefully pound and remove the 2 screws holding the brake rotor onto the hub.

18) remove the old brake rotor

19) unbolt brakeline from brake caliper, taking care to use a rag to avoid spillage
19b - cut ziptie holding old brake caliper, be careful the fluid does not spill! (plug the hole)

20) place end of brake line into the jar you brought to catch the brake fluid -
let this drip here for a while, maybe 10 minutes.


Installation!
21) Install new Legend rotor taking care to align the screw holes. Don't use the impact driver to tighten the screws! wipe down rotor with a clean cloth.

22) Install legend caliper bracket

23) replace your brake pads in the bracket

24) mount the Legend caliper on the upper bolt only!

25) swing caliper upwards (to point the bleed bolt and nipple up

26) zip tie the caliper so it does not fall back down.

27) optional step Remove the rubber brake lines (2 bolts) and replace them with the Goodgridge (or other brand) Stainless steel lines,

28) Attach your brake lines to the Legend caliper, using the 2 washers from the old caliper.

At this point you should double check all of your work, make sure everything is snug, not tight, (though the brake line fittings should be tight). If you are doing one side at a time, now is the appropriate time to do the other side. You are now ready to bleed the brakes! congrats!

Bleeding!

For bleeding, make sure you bleed the ENTIRE system, front and back. I'm including two links to bleeding articles, so you have some background. Remember that you'll need to angle the calipers up.

29) Take those small blocks of wood and carefully wedge them into the calipers. you may need more than one block. I used 3, and zip tied them in place. Try to fill nearly the entire volume of the caliper. You don't want those pistons popping out!

30-32)Article 1 (http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...rakesright.htm)
Article 2 (http://www.sentra.net/tech/garage/brakes.php)

33) Repeat as necessary!

34) remove the wood blocks from the calipers, and gently slide the calipers down over the pads. (This may be a little difficult to do, but if you filled most of the caliper with the wood block, it won't be too bad.)

35) Bolt the lower caliper bolt to the bracket, and tighten all bolts in the brake system that need tightening.
35a) Before mounting wheels, double check ALL of the brake bolts and screws! There are 2 screws in the rotor, 2 bolts on the caliper, 2 bolts on the bracket, and 1 bolt on the brake line.

36) mount your two front wheels

37) test the car in a parking lot. test it a LOT. at slow speeds. Don't exceed 15 miles per hour. Remove the wheels and triple check the brake bolts!

If your car performed well, take it up to traffic speeds of 25-35 miles per hour and try some gradual stops. If you have done everything right, the braking should feel better than it did before you began. Run the car for a day or two, TAKING IT EASY!!!, and then you may want to bleed the brakes again, just to be safe.

You are DONE!! Congradulations and enjoy your new twin piston braking system!!! :D

If you have problems with the brakes, if they feel loose or unresponsive, then you still have air in the system. Go back to step 30, and bleed them again. Remember that while you are bleeding you need to build up brake pressure with the brake bleed bolt TIGHT. Once most of the air is out of the system, it will start to feel quite good!
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